Request Advice On Table/router

[Iamdusty]

I am hoping some of you will share your thoughts to help me select a router and table setup. I am gradually adding to my woodwork tools and now can add a router. Thank you in advance for your help.
Dale M.

DeWalt 788

[Jediscroller]

What type of routing will you be doing? A nice router is the Porter-Cable 690 which is available with both a fixed and plunge base. It's only 1 1/2 hp though so if you're planning on building any raised panel doors it does not have the power for those types of operations. The PC 894 is also very good with better power and variable speed as well. As far as tables go, Bench Dog has a nice selection but I built my own so I don't have a lot of experience with bought tables.

[workin for wood]

I agree with Kevin, love the 690. I disagree about the doors though, as I've made a few dozen raised panel doors with my 690 router. You can get the 690 in variable speed as well. Buying the fixed and plunge base is smart, especially if you are wanting to install it in a table. You can install the fixed base into your table insert. You pull back on the clip, the motor drop twists out the bottom and you can drop it into the plunge base to do portable work, thus not having to unscrew the fixed base from the table insert. I never bought a table either, just make my own. I did purchase the aluminum table insert from Rockler and a good fence system. You want a fence where the outfeed side can be adjusted seperate from the infeed. That's what you need to do any router jointing or to build doors. You need some finger boards too, either make them or buy them. Dust collection is a plus...a good fence system will include a dust port. If you make your own insert, be sure and install a removable pivot point...important safety feature for routing without a fence. Do not over tighten your collet in your router. Wear safety goggles. Do not try and remove too much material at a time. 1/16 should be a maximum amount of material removed at any one time. Figured wood should be very light passes as it causes chatter into the collet shaft and can cause the bit to blow out the top. #1 most dangerous tool in the shop, the router. Kills the most people, and most often from the action of setting your router down. People tend to set the router down on it's side and the bit is facing your stomach and hasn't totally stopped spinning yet...it grabs your loose t shirt and sucks right into your gut, disemboweling you...if that's the right term for that. Proper technique is not to lift the router from a project until bit stops.

[Iamdusty]

Thank you Kevin and Jeff, for the info and advice. I would like to be able to use it in both a table and free-hand. I will be using it for some scroll saw projects and some small furniture such as end tables etc.
I just found a listing in a local classified add, for a Bosch table with a Bosch plunge/stationary router model 1613EVS, for $200.00 I don't know if there are any bits etc. included. The add says it has been used very lightly and the photo's show it looking like new and mounted in the table. Any thoughts on that router and price? Thanks, Dale M.

[lucky788scroller]

Adding a router will really add a whole new dimension to any of your woodworking projects.It also will add a whole nother safety issue.Do not assume it is a safe machine (never assume that with any tool).Its only as safe as the user, so always remember to really think through each cut.And,when something seems scary, its ok, sometimes that fear will help you make a decision to rethink the cut.I have learned this by experience, somewhere theres a thread on here about my stupidness, and in the end, it was confirmed, flesh is no match for spinning carbide (I'll spare you the photos).

Now, the PC( porter cable) 690 has already been mentioned.Although I dont have a PC router, I do think they are one of the best on the market, especially for table mounted applications.I use and am very happy with my Bosch routers, both the table mounted one, and the handheld one, and would recommend them as well.The 1613EVS is an awesome router, I use that as my handheld.Shop around, you may find an even better deal on it.But dont be afraid, it is a great tool! A router table is fairly simple to build yourself, but you may be just as happy buying a premade one, and not hassle with it.I purchased a table from Router Tables and Router Table Tops at the woodworking show when it was nearby, so I didnt deal with any shipping fees,I would suggest the #1068 tabletop they offer. With that top, combined with a $50 bathroom sink vanity cabinet, and a long hinge, you can build a really nice router table with storage and dust collection space.

I would suggest a router lift, similar to one of these Router Lifts Main Page for your table, and you may want to check on the tables router plate hole before ordering components, so they all fit together. THe RT2432C top looks adequate, although I like Tslots of aluminum better for the fence like the one on peachtrees table.Anyways.... A easy router lift from above the table adjusting is the way to go, thats why I suggest a good router lift.This lift needs to be bought to fit your routers motor diameter. A big simgle speed router will better serve you on a table than a variable speed one, again, for easy of speed adjustments. With a single speed router, you can attach a variable speed control like #1062 on Router Accessories and use that as your on/off switch and to turn a single speed router into a variable speed unit,because variable speed is a must in a table.This just makes it more convenient than reaching under the table to fiddle with speed adjusting, and lets you use a single speed router. The rest of the stuff is pretty basic stuff, jigs you can build, ect, all to make it safer and easier, and cleaner, as a router can create mounds of shavings!

I cant get a picture of my router table setup today for you, but if you want, I can get item #'s for the components I used to build my table setup. The only modifications I did on anything was to raise the standard bathroom cabinet height (bought from Menards at about $60) 3 1/2 inches so its roughly the height of my other tools,and because my router lift wasnt sized exactly to my tables hole, I did have to rout some notches in the inner rim of the tabletop to mount my lift mechanism.

As for handheld, by all means get a router with soft start, and variable speed.

This link MLCS Web Specials also has a huge assortment of tops and accessories, and they always ship free and fast too!

Hopefully some of that info is useable for you to get you started.

[greatdane2]

For the last 10 years I have used a PC router with twin bases. I used 3 pieces of plexiglass with various sized holes. It sat on a simple table with a cutout to fit the plates that held mthe router. Two clamps and a 3' scrap of wood for the fence will get you started. I would switch up to a better fence that will hold feather boards, a safety plate and adjustable slide boards. Just about every book on routers show plans to make a table and fence.
My dad just croaked and I got his tools. So now I have a Bosch 3 1/2 hp. router with a incremental crank lift and a table and fence with all the bells and whistles.
The new set cost him well over $1000.00 and does nothing more than my home made system would do.
If I was just starting with a router I would go with a dual base router with a good hp rating. Also with two collets to fit 1/4 and 1/2" bits.and build a table and fence.
If you end up using the router as a main tool in your shop it might be worth going fancy with the fence and table.
Also router bits come in hundreds of shapes and sizes and prices. And your router with all the stuff that goes with it can end up as your most expencive tool.
So If your 200.00 router is in good shape go for it. I would also get a medium $ set of carbide bits. give the set some use and then buy the bits you use. I use 4-5 bitts most and the rest look good in the bit tray.
Alan.

[Ramjet]

Gosh . I feel embarrassed . I bought one of those Costco $99.00 Master Grip router/table combinations .I also have an old Sears and Porter Cable . The portercable is one with an aluminum body and fits almost in the palm of your hand . I like it because it is light weight .I cut a hole in 3/4" plywood and bolted it to the bottom . Worked good for what I was doing at the time .I used to watch a PBS show called Router Workshop: Home on tv ..They made all kinds of neat things . Oh , my Costco deal . It is still in the box so I can't comment . I think it all depends on what you plan to do . Seems to me one router is almost the same as another , unless you want to get into who has the bigger tool thingy . Cheers
Roger

[Wood Dog]

Once you decide on your router do get a small piece holder. It is invaluable in my shop.
I got mine at Rockler.

[Iamdusty]

Thank you all so much for the help. I especially appreciate the advice regarding safety issues. Since I am still learning, I need that kind of advice as much or more than the answer to the specific question I have asked.
I talked with the person selling the Bosch 1613 EVS mounted in a Bosch table ($200.00) and she tells me that it has been hardly used and there are several bits that go with it that are still in their original packaging, unused.
I think I will probably go ahead and buy it. The only hesitation I have is because of some comments on line about, when this router is table mounted, the weight of the router can lower the bit down into the table opening, while it is running. Have any of you heard anything about that? I guess if it is a problem and I can't fix it, I will have a good handheld router.
Anyway, thanks so much for all your help.

Dale M.

DW 788

[greatdane2]

A few times it has happened to me, A smack upside the head and tightening the lock is a simple fix. It has never moved other than that.
Alan and Chance.