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Tools and Blades | |||
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| | #1 |
| Member Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 91
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Thought I'd share something I found that seems, so far, to have greatly improved my G4 blade holder performance. As some of you may know I've had a real problem with the blade slipping loose from the G4 holders. I upgraded to the solid aluminum block type holders the Hawk people recommended. These were some better than the original shiny holders with the 2 screws but I still got a lot of slip out, particularly in the lower blade holder. I've tried adding a round wooden knob over the existing plastic one for a better grip, I've repeatedly cleaned the holder inside with lacquer thinner, and had even etched an X on the end of the knob screw which contacts the blade. None of these eliminated the problem. The other day, after a particularly annoying session where I spent far more time reinserting the blade after it came loose than sawing, I started thinking about why the bottom holder was doing 95% of the slippage while the top holder, identical in design, gave no real problem. I hadn't even made a larger knob for the top as I'm a top feeder and only loosen and retighten the top when changing blades. I wondered if the end of the screw that was contacting the blade could possible be making only partial contact with the opposing set screw. I took it out of the holder and looked closely and it looked as though the end might not be flat. In other words, not quite 90 degrees to the thread shaft. So I took the screw with attached knob to my bench grinder and lightly ground the end flat eyeballing it only to get it perpendicular to the shaft. (I don't have machinist tools needed to get it perfect). I then reinstalled the screw/knob and went to sawing. That was about a week ago. I've gone thru several blades since and perhaps 3 to 4 hours of sawing, and not one slip so far!! I've previously roughed up the screw end, etched it, etc.,etc., but nothing seemed to help till I "squared and flattened" the thing. Now I don't even have to torque down the knob nearly as hard as I used to and the blade still holds. I admit that I like to run my blades a little tighter than some may but I rarely break a blade so I don't believe it's too tight. Thought maybe Jeff Powell and some other Hawk owners might want to try this if they're having some holder slippage issues. Ralph |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: california
Posts: 6,398
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Ralph. just wondering , do you have a picture of this. thanks. your friend Evie
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| | #3 |
| Land Locked Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 1,694
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I haven't had the problem Ralph but I sure will tuck it away for future reference. Thanks.
__________________ Mike C. Hawk G4 |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,975
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Thank you Ralph. I have had the same problem and I think that you are on to something. I even had the thought of redrilling and rethreading the hole for a larger diameter set screw and tighting screw. I will definitly try your suggestion. Sawdustus
__________________ A day without sawdust is a day without sunshine. George delta 650, hawk G426 |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bellport, LI New York
Posts: 2,808
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I have a whole collection of the newer solid block holders for my G4 and I am happy to say I am not having any problems with them at all. But I did modify the Aluminum body a entirely different problem.
__________________ Rolf RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350 Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can" |
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| | #6 |
| Master Scroller Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Eaton Rapids Michigan
Posts: 2,474
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yep, thanks. I have done all that and am not having any slippage issues. I am not a top feeder. my problem is holding onto the holder to tighten it. I use pliers to hold the holder, that get me a good grip and it never slips. Main problem I have is breaking the two fingers that hold the holder in place. I'm over a half dozen now. Supposedly the new ones are a better quality aluminum, time will tell. As you can see by what I do, I put the hawk to the test when I use it.
__________________ Jeff Powell |
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 558
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Thanks for the tip. I was having the same problem with my 220VS a while back. I got to thinking the anvil set screw may not be set right. I installed a blade and torqued it a bit. Couldn't really tell if it moved or not but slipping pretty much went away. Earl |
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| | #8 |
| Member Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 91
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Evie, I don't know how much a picture will show but I'll try and take one and post this weekend. The idea is to provide as much metal to metal contact as possible on the blade. By making sure the end of the two screw ends that hold the blade are flat and parallel to each other the contact area is maximized. Hope this makes sense. Ralph |
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