Hand Planes

[Barefoot1]

So I have these small pieces of walnut that I need to get to 1/8". The DeWalt started to destroy them just before that so I stopped and thought, I'll hand plane them. I get a Stanley plane and the instructions for set up say - We set the angle at 25 degrees at the factory, before use you need to hone it to 30 degrees. OK, I am now thinking what the heck?? You couldn't do the last 5 degrees?!?!?
So my question is this, how in the world do I do that??? Does this require special jigs and stones?

[JohnB]

G'day Thomas,
An iron on a hand plane has to bevels, a grinding bevel and a sharpening bevel.
What I'd say they mean is that they have set the grinding bevel, and you now have to hone it on a stone.
All I've ever used is a fine oil stone, sit the iron on it and find the angle and using a figure 8 motion put an edge on it.
You can buy guides which will keep the blade at the correct angle.

[JohnB]

Thomas,
You may like to have a look at this video. There's a lot of farting around and the bloke is a bit anal about sharpening, but it gives you the idea.

Sharpening and Honing Chisels and Hand Plane Blades

[GrayBeard Phil]

Ah, a discussion on plane sharpening! Elsewhere, this discussion can generate 50 to 100 posts and still be going strong!

So, IMHO, and this is only my opinion!

1. The sole (bottom) of the plane body needs to flattened. Period. This calls for a known flat surface like a table saw, or very thick glass plate several sheets (grits) of wet /dry sandpaper and at least 8 hours. What is important is the entire area around the plane mouth is flat to at least 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. You can go for higher if you want.

2. The back of the plane iron needs to be flat and highly polished. This is very important. You only need to flatten the back about 1/2 inch from the bevel. Some get away with just 1/4 inch using waterstones up to 5000 or 8000 grit. (or equivalent with other sharpening methods / stones / grits/...)

3. The grinding of the 1st bevel should be about 30 degrees, not critical. Visit the Woodcraft web site for many options on stones, jigs, and other aids.

4. The so called micro-bevel, or second bevel needs to be 25 degrees. Remember the blade goes in bevel down for most planes, and bevel up for block planes. You can also buy low angle block planes which are very useful for scroll sawyers. This angle is important, and makes several presumptions about the accuracy of the "frog" of the plane and it's supporting angle. (TRUST ME, the angles of the iron and the cutting edge, and the supporting plane angles is a LONG and boring discussion!)

5. THEN there is the whole discussion about the distance between the cutting edge and the front of the mouth of the plane, type of plane, wood being cut, and so forth.

6. THEN there is the setting of the iron for depth of cut.

7. And SO ON.....

Secondary bevel, needs only be 1/10 of an inch. As your blade gets dull you only sharpen the secondary bevel, making it longer and longer. You only redo the 1st bevel only if there is a need to regrind massive amounts of steel (ie drop blade on concrete floor). Once sharpened, fully tuned plane and plane iron should be good for years.

Link to some more instructions for the curious (long!) :
A Guide to Honing and Sharpening Woodworking Tools

I am sure I saw someone had a YouTube demo on how to sharpen plane irons.

Should take about 30 to 40 hours to get a truly useful Stanley plane.

Phil

[workin for wood]

Hahaha...yea. This is why you spend $300 and buy a good quality plane. Then it only takes 2-3 hrs to tune it.

[Barefoot1]

Good Grief . . .

[Wood Dog]

Graybeard Phil what is the difference between the "back" of a plane and the "bottom" of a plane ? I'm a bit confused.........who knew!

[BobD]

I collect and restore handplanes (so Phil's estimate it stotally out the door for my planes (100+ hours on average)...but there is NOTHING like slicing a paper thin shaving off a piece of birdseye maple.

I'll be brutally honest...it's not an ideal situation by any means, but I'd use the plane out of the box to get it close, then sand from there. It'll still take some time, and you'll get tired, but it will get you close.

Bob

[BobD]

Phil is referring to the bottom of the entire plane (the big metal thing that holds the blade, which is called the plane iron).

The back of the plane iron is the back side of the cutting blade. Think of the plane iron as a wide, thin, chisel; the back side of the chisel is the flat side (the one without a bevel). The back side of the plane iron (blade) is also flat.

Bob

[jigsue]

I would get my hubby to do it and not ask how, why ... he apprenticed as a cabinet maker and much of what he does seems anal to me ... and he doesn't really like me "messing around" with the good stuff!!!


Sue