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Tools and Blades | |||
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| | #1 |
| Technical Editor |
Hey everyone, I've seen how popular these blades are (several people have commented on them). People have been asking for smaller blades, and Mike called me to let me know that #1 blades are now available in the Ultra Reverse style. They have arrived about 2 weeks early from the manufacturer. Best regards, Bob Duncan Technical Editor
__________________ www.WoodCarvingIllustrated.com www.FoxChapelPublishing.com www.ScrollSawer.com Shopsmith, Hawk G4 |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Brandon, SD
Posts: 628
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I forgot to tell Bob, that the top has a colour. It makes it easier to know what the top of the blade is. Mike M
__________________ Home of the FD Blades |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Newburgh NY
Posts: 188
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Hi Mike, Will all the blades have the color at the top or just the small Ultra-Reverse? PS I like the UR blades as well. I just can't tell if it is the blades or the practice or both that is making my cuts look better ![]() Thanks. Chris
__________________ loving my DW788 |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Brandon, SD
Posts: 628
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Hi Chris, In time at least the # 3 and 5 will have the color on top. When, depends on inventory. Mike M
__________________ Home of the FD Blades |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Montgomery, NY
Posts: 126
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Has anyone had any problems with these blades breaking? I recently got a sample from Mike and I dont know if I put to much tension or what but I broke them all already. Two of them I didnt even get a chance to cut with, as soon as I put tension on them I went to get the wood and pop they broke. The others I had cut a bit with them and went upstairs when I heard bang, went down and they were broken. I put the same amount of tension as with other blades that I use but I guess it was just too much, I think it also might be from my upper blade clamp maybe. I dont know, any ideas? King |
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| | #6 |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Kansas
Posts: 64
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I have been using the ultra reverse #3's and #5's and they have never broken. They will dull and burn the wood but not break. Once they dull, I turn them over and cut with them upside down without any negative effects. They are the best blades I have ever used. Where are your blades breaking? Is it where the bladeholder clamps? Do you have a problem with any other types of blades using the same blade holder? I would check to see if the clamp has a sharp edge on it that could be nicking the blade. John |
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| | #7 |
| Member Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 91
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I have to agree with John, they will dull a little quicker than the standard skip reverse blades but I haven't broken one yet. I've used about 3 dozen so far with no problem with breakage. I'll have to try turning them over when they're dull. When I put one in upside down by accident it seemed to drift off to one side a lot. Maybe I didn't have the tension set or something. I'll try it again. Ralph |
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| | #8 |
| Banned Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Wynndel, BC, Canada
Posts: 877
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I have not had the touble with breakage with the half dozen of the ones that I have tried so far of some of the the different sizes . That could have something to do with the quality of my scroll saw. However, so far I did have short blade life compared to the other brand that I use exclusively. I feel that that the reason for that is that there are too many teeth facing up and not enogh facing down. That creates more sawdust surfacing to the top and not getting cleared out at the bottom to keep the kerf open and filling the kerf line with sawdust which creates heat and thus premature failure.. Personally I think there are far too many teeth pointing upward . I will continue trying another dozen or so of the various sizes and see If I can find something that I am more satisfied with and if I do I will surely put a more favorable plug in for them as to my findings . W.Y. |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member |
I too have recently bought some #5 Ultra Reverse. I just started using them to cut a picture with 3/4 maple. Very happy with the results. None have broken and get some very nice cutting with virtually no burning. Yes the blade darkens but the cut seems OK. I have it noted from somewhere (maybe Mike's site) that every third tooth on these blades is reversed. Just for fun I reversed a used blade to try and get some extra mileage out of it, but when cutting the 3/4 maple the wood wanted to jump "out of control". I figured this is due to the two teeth now pointing up when blade is in upside down. Fortunately I always use the hold down clamp on my saw so no serious damage to my work was done. In summary use caution if you reverse these blades and try to cut 3/4 hardwood. Like many others here, I too can hardly wait until these balde manufactures visually identify which end of a blade is up. The very small and reverse tooth blades drive me nuts trying to "feel" which way the teeth are pointing. Cheers Bob
__________________ Scrolling satisfies the passion for intricate creativity. My saw is an Excalibur EX21. |
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| | #10 |
| American Crafstman |
I didn't have any trouble with breakage at all with the UR's. I was very pleased with the results. I cut an entire 60ish piece intarsia out of 7/8" hardwoods with a single blade. As at the time the only ones Mike had were #5's I haven't had a chance to compare them to what I usually cut with which are the #3 SR's but if the #5's are any indication these are easily the best blades available (IMO). And yes, I have tried them all.
__________________ Kevin Scrollsaw Patterns Online Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671 |
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