|
Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
* Browse over 200,000 posts. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team. |
| | ||||||
Tools and Blades | |||
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| | #1 |
| San Antonio, TX Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 25
|
Ok, I need a little help from all you geniuses out there, and after reading so many threads and comments, I know you’re there! I like to do my fret work with scrap lumber, and usually use cabinet maker’s scrap hardwood. The problem is that regardless of the length –by- width of the wood I get, it’s usually always to thick for the scrolling I do – 3/8” or less. The pieces I do get are sometimes dangerously small to risk my fingers on a bandsaw, and are seldom square. I have been thinking of a planer like the Dewalt 734 or 735 thickness planer, but with these two, the length needs to be longer then anything I normally get. So, the question I have, are there jigs available for holding down small pieces for feeding into a planer, or are there some other ideas that I haven’t heard and/or thought about yet???? |
| | |
| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Lubbock Texas
Posts: 117
|
are there jigs available for holding down small pieces for feeding into a planer, or are there some other ideas that I haven’t heard and/or thought about yet? I have glued the short pieces of wood , just at the ends, to a piece of longer scrap lumber and planned it that way. Then cut the glued areas near each end off to free the wood from the scrap piece. I have gotten oak down to 1/8inch this way.
__________________ But that is just my opinion,I could be right |
| | |
| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Stevens Point, WI
Posts: 335
|
Dave...I make it a practice never to plane anything less than 1/2". But that is just me. Just to much of a chance and danger of having the thin wood shatter. At 1/2 inch I will bandsaw in half and then run it through a drum sander. I am fortunate enough to have a Performax 16-32 drum sander which really works great for just that type of work. Just a thought here. Jim has mentioned one of several ways of doing what you need. Another idea is to build an auxiliary bed, of plywood or even pine, for your planner. Then use double-sided tape to secure your wood to the auxilary bed and run it through. Stand off to the side and take veeeerrry thin cuts.
__________________ Paul S. Excalibur EX-21 (The Green Machine) Last edited by Paul S WI; 03-10-2008 at 03:09 AM. |
| | |
| | #4 |
| Dino Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Fergus Falls,MN
Posts: 821
|
How small of pieces are you wanting to plane. I have used a thinner longer board as a pusher when planing a short board as already stated, verrrrrry thin cuts and stand off to the side. You never know when the tape may fail and the piece comes flying out. Good Luck Dean |
| | |
| | #5 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 400
| Quote:
__________________ Bruce . . . because each piece will be someone's heirloom someday. visit sometime Hawk 220VS, Delta 40-570 | |
| | |
| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bellport, LI New York
Posts: 2,808
|
I have the Dewalt 735, and they recommend nothing shorter than 12". I routinely plane my wood down to 1/8 but I am very concious of grain direction and I take very light cuts. I will at some point get a drum sander. I do small pieces on my band saw and then clean them up on my Sand Flee.
__________________ Rolf RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350 Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can" Last edited by Rolf; 03-13-2008 at 01:15 PM. |
| | |
| | #7 |
| Wood Mauler Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: South Jordan Utah
Posts: 822
|
I would have to vote for the Band Saw in this case. I really believe the band saw to be a very safe tool and with a push stick your fingers need never get close to the blade. The planner has multiple blades turning at high speeds, I would shy away from glue ups and jigs. I know others do them but I would still be very leery of doing that unless you were very experienced with that tool.
__________________ Thomas The Barefoot Scroller ~ Thomas@barefootwoodworks.com www.barefootwoodworks.com |
| | |
| | #8 |
| Big Sky Scroller Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Polson, MT
Posts: 34
|
I seldom use my thickness planer; it is impossible to use on figured wood (tearout) and you end up wasting wood (planer shavings). I use the bandsaw to resaw within about 2/3 32nds of desired thickness and then use the drum sander for final demension. I end up with the correct thickness plus the use of the remainder of the wood.
|
| | |
| | #9 |
| Senior Member |
If I plane short pieces, I use either double sided tapeon a makeshift sled, or you can countersink woodscrews down far enough you can plane over them until you get close. being careful and aware of the possibilities that can occur , and take light passes. I have planed to 1/8th inch a number of times on my ridgid benchtop planer without trouble. Dale
|
| | |
| | #10 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 28
|
I have used the method of gluing a small piece to a larger one and use that to do the re-sawing on the bandsaw. It allows you to use your fence and stay well clear of the blade. Tom |
| | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |