Let me try this again - bandsaw blades

[Kevin12]

Okay. I'm more with it tonight. (Sorry about that last incoherent thread I started. ) I'm awaiting my first bandsaw: Rikon 14", resaw 13", 1.5 HP, will take blades 1/8" to 3/4".

I've decided, based on what I've heard and read and understand from a recent thread, to get a 1/2" 3 TPI Timber Wolf blade for resawing.

But I'm still unsure about what to get for a smaller blade. I think the "all-purpose" blade is 1/4", but is there any argument for or against a 1/8" blade? (I do, after all, have my scroll saw). Also, what TPI, and hook or standard for the 1/4" or 1/8" What does everybody else have and/or recommend?

Thanks!

[Andy]

I'm not expert by any means but have had GREAT success with the Swedish Silicone blades from http://www.tufftooth.com/. I have a 1/2" for resawing and an 1/8" for detail work and making boxes.

Excellent company to deal with and the blades are all made (cut to length and welded) in house. I ran into them at a wood show and have no problem recommending them.

Andy

[Paul S WI]

Well Kevin...I leave my 1/2" 3 TPI blade in the BS as I primarily use the BS for resawing. Scrollsaw and Jig saw handle everything else. Saves on the aggravation of switching blades out.

[Rolf]

Ok this is wierd I thought I posted to this thread from home yesterday?
Anyway, I have tried three different blade manufactureres.
The Delta that came with my saw they seemed to wander a bit. I then purchased some of the Accuright blades from Carter. They cut very nicely.
I was using a 3/4" blade for resawing. It cut very well but I felt that I was stressing my saw with the high blade tension.(no proof, just a feeling)
I also didn't like the fact that it restricted me to primarily resawing. I don't like constantly changing blades.
Many of my fellow club members kept bragging about the Timberwolf blades so I bought a couple of 1/2 inch blades. Are they much better than the Carter blades ? I can't really say.
I think I will order a 1/4" and a 1/8" blade just for those odd projects too big for my scroll saw.
Timberwolf has a nice blade chart
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/sili..._selection.asp

[GrayBeard Phil]

Kevin:

After reading both of your posts---

1 - Very basic: which I am sure you know already, Band Saw Handbook, by Mark Duginske. I regard Mark as the bandsaw expert. Several good bits on the whole hook tooth for resaw, and standard tooth for everything else.

2 - Twist wood on a scroll saw, and the teeth of the blade will cut wood and try to get back to alignment. We do this all the time, twist the wood quickly while the blade is running.

2a - Band saw blades cannot do the scroll saw cutting a twist path. It is important to the operation of a bandsaw that the blade must NOT be twisted during cutting. That is why there are those pesky guide blocks.

2b - I have seen the bandsaw blade turning radius charts so many times, but I cannot find one now on the Internet. The following link is close, see page 10 of the PDF file from Olson bandsaw blades (good blades BTW) :
http://www.olsonsaw.com/PDFFiles/Olson_Band_Catalog.pdf

2c - The turn radius means as the wood turns, the front teeth are in contact with the wood, and the back of the blade is NOT touching the walls of the kerf. This is a picture-is-worth-a-thousand-words time: Image a sketch of two arcs depicting a kerf cut of a radius. Now between the two arcs, draw a rectangle such that only one corner of the rectangle touches the wood. Mark's book has many such diagrams.

2d - Thus you should buy a 1/8 inch blade if you are going to make sharp curves. Let your cutting choose your blade. For example: 1/4 inch blade has a minimum contour cutting radius of 5/8 inch with standard blade set (kerf). A 3/8" turns on a 1-1/2 inch radius. These are big circles, 5/8 radius is 10/8, or 1-1/4 inch diameter circle.

3 - I have seen it written many times the 3-teeth-rule in bandsaw blade selections for wood cutting. The minimum teeth in contact with the wood must be 3 teeth. The T.P.I, of your blade you should measure against your wood. Do the math:
--- 10 TPI means about one tooth every 1/10 of an inch (0.100"), if you have 1/4 inch wood (0.250") then you don't have 3 teeth in contact with the wood at all times. At best 2 1/2 teeth in contact with the wood.
--- at 14 TPI, or roughly one tooth every 0.07". Then with 1/4 inch thick wood (0.250") you have meet the 3 teeth rule ( 3 times 0.07" is 0.21")
--- I leave it to you to figure out why an 18 tooth blade for 3/16 wood and 24 teeth for 1/8 inch wood. But I don't recommend trying 1/8 inch wood for beginning band sawyers, as the wood breaks too easy.

4 - Resaw blades make a HUGE difference when resawing. Lots and lots of arguments one way or the other. For standard bandsaw work, never heard much discussion one way or the other. Go for a long life blade, and pay $$; short life and pay less. Every day work, I don't think most will notice much difference, go with Olson, or the brand sold by Woodcraft.

5 - Wood from a band saw is not ready for finishing. Most bandsaw work requires cutting 'fat-to-the-line' and sanding to the line. Do not expect band saw cuts to be like scroll sawn kerf wall all smooth and clean.

Phil

PS: I swear, this Columbian Coffee is sooo good.

[earlinjax]

If you own a band saw you need the catalog (really a book) from Iturra Design, 1-888-722-7078 or 904-642 2802. I consider him to be THE guru of the band saw. Even if you don't buy from him, you will learn a lot by reading the catalog. Did I say catalog? The last one I got was 197 pages long.
BTW, there is no web site.

Earl

[lucky788scroller]

Yes to the Timberwolf 1/2 in 3 tpi for resawing, and yes, get a 1/8th inch blade too, you might enjoy cutting out bandsawn boxes, they are great for that. Dale

[Kevin12]

Thanks to all for your replies. All were very helpful. As expected, opinions varied some, but I can now at least make my decisions.

As it happens, I did buy Duginske's book. Turns out, the manager of my local Woodcraft is friends with Duginske and is even listed in the Acknowledgements! 'Tis a great book, but knowing me, it won't be the only BS book I'll own. So thanks for those suggestions, too.

I'll post how I like the saw after I've had it a while. I'm excited - it'll be one of only 4 power tools I've bought new - all the rest I have are really cheap, really old, or really used.

Thanks again, all!

[MarkF]

Kevin,
One thing not mentioned above is that a 1/8" blade will not allow the use of side roller guides. You will need to use cool blocks or equivalent.

Also...Many of the North Carolina folks use blades from www.woodcraftbands.com
Very good service and the best prices on bi-metal blades anywhere. They last and last and last and all I use. Call John and describe what you want to do and he will take care of you. fyi...he's closed on Fridays.