planers

[silverstar]

I am in the market for a planer (not the hand type). I need feedback on the different brands ...pro and cons ...before I buy. Come on all you pros out there.....

[MikeDingas]

I'm not fortunate enough to yet acquire a planer but here's a little info that might help. And some more.

And here's a pretty good list.

[Nubbin]

I have had a DeWalt 734 for 5 years now and have had no problems with it. There is a 735 model out now and I have heard it is a good one also.

[JohnB]

G'day Bruce, Probably not much help to you, but I have a GMC, a bottom to middle of the road 12 and1/2" thicknesser.
It does a great job and I don't know how I managed before I got it. About 2 years ago now.

I don't machine really huge pieces of timber, so reckoned that the least money spent the better and that it would do what I wanted. It does.
Maybe when it finally gives up the ghost I'll get a better one, Readies allowing

[eendreno]

hi bruce- what are you going to be doing? what are you looking to spend? a cheapo bench top can be had for about 200. (grizzly) i beleive the dewalt and delta cost under 400.00 each. lightweight, 110 volt, disposable knifes. i used a cheapo delta, was cutting way less, and going very slow on 1x6 rough sawn pine. the chipped knife blades, slower feed, more passes required i could very easily justify spending additional money for a 15" 220 volt 2 speed model. i owned a plainer/jointer combo 12"/6" hitachi. makita also made a machine with the same features. if you could find one of these used you might this tool to be a useful addition to your shop. doug

[Plaquerd]

Bruce
I have the Dewalt 735. I start almost all my projects with rough cut lumber. I use the 735 to dimension the wood. Never have a problem with it. It is a 13” model, two speed 96 cuts per inch and 179 cpi. At 179 cpi there is hardly any need to sand the wood.
I have planed everything from White Pine to Cocobolo, the Cocobolo was 11” wide and it planed beautifully. It is like any other wood working machine, you have to use it correctly, in order for it to work properly, no need to force anything. Light passes produce the best results, but it will take alot of wood off at once if you want.
The blades are easy to change and they last a good while. Make sure the wood is CLEAN before you run it through the planer, dirt is one of the causes of blades dulling before their time. One suggestion, if you get a thickness planer, you should look into getting a dust collector if you don’t already have one ………… lots of wood chips!
I hope this is of some help.
Dave

[knothead]

I have a Jet 13" on an closed stand. I really like it. Plenty of power and has two speeds. The dust collection is excellent.
Tom

[jigsue]

A planer/thicknesser is on my Christmas list. I think there is a good chance of receiving one as my husband wants one too. He has just bought a classic sailboat (1937) which needs some refurbishment, so there is plenty of uses for the new tool. I would find it very handy for intarsia work, which, to date, I have not done much of, largely because of the difficulty of getting different woods to the same thickness. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

Sue

[GrayBeard Phil]

Bruce:

Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing, there are thickness planers and surface planers; one is under $500.00 and sold to hobbyist and homeowners. The other is very expensive, and weighs in at about 2,000 lbs.

From what I know, all thickness planers cause end board 'snips' about 2-1/2 inches to 3 inches on the end of the board as it completes a pass. This 'dig' or snip that has to be cut off. Nature of beast that keeps the price down. Surface planers don't have that, as rollers and knifes have different setup.

I have the preference for a model where the head and knifes are lowered to the static bed; a false bottom plywood extension can be built for thinner woods. Even down to 1/8 inch. Don't try that without a false wood base. However, way more people like the bed to be raised to the fixed cutting head which I think makes it easier for Dust Collection. Could be lots of other valid reasons. I just like the way mine works.

Speaking of Dust Collection. There will be a whole lot of wood chip waste. Think it through NOW how you will deal with it. One 8 foot long 8" wide board being reduced for normal 1-by to 1/2" thick will fill most Sears shop Vacs. Those Sears shop vac paper filters will clog up on first pass, you can hear the increase in noise level and tone from the shop vac when that occurs.

Never use a thickness planner without hearing protection.

Never use a thickness planner with out bolting it to a bench or stand. You know, solid plank of wood acting like a lever with fulcrum point and all that tipping over bit. So, just how quickly can the one you choose be bolted and unbolted to your very precious work bench space?

As with all wood working tools, the cutting edge is where the action is. Be sure the model you choose has an accurate and moderately easy way to replace the cutting knife(s). I bought a long time ago a jig for sharpening my thickness planner knifes with a 8000 grit water stone. Only to discover that anything over 2500 grit water stone is a waste of effort. And new replacement knifes dropped to under $30.00 for a set (third party aftermarket knifes.) Do check the store shelves that a replacement blade is there, and maybe check the price while you are there. Remember the Magic words HSS: High Speed Steel.

Sorry, no specific brand and model recommendations. Change too often for me to follow. Suggest you ask on a Mainstream Woodworking forum, or try Wood Magazine back issues for latest thickness planer buyer guide.

Phil

[NMScroller]

I have a 12" Craftsman and it works just fine. The only thing I would like to add is variable speed (some models will have this) and a longer table (shop made is fine).