Delta saw

[workin for wood]

Wife called me up from a yard sale today. She found a delta 20" variable saw that did run for $40. Sure it has some rust, but that's cleanable. I haven't had any time to mess with it, and won't for the rest of this day, but I did notice that it doesn't hold a blade tight. I know nothing about these saws, but here ya'll raving about them every so often. Don't know that it's a P20 or what.

Took picture of clamp. I pull back tension rod, push blade back into slot. I tried pushing and pulling on that little handle beside the blade holder that seems to tighten the slot up. But it doesn't tighten the slot up very much. I can easily pull blade back out of slot, and if I re-tension the lever on the arm, the blade easily falls out. I don't even know that I'm putting the blade in correctly. Maybe the blade goes behind the screw? If I tighten the screw nut in the holder will it make it tighter? There is a knob on top of the upper arm, I'm guessing that is the actual tensioner and the lever to it's left is a quick release for the tension? Any tips or suggestions? I am hoping this saw can be easily operated so I can give it to my 6 yr old daughter. My 50's style craftsman saw is too complicated for her to do a blade change.

[Rick-H]

Go to my web site and look at the video on how to use the Delta clamp. Once you see how it works I guess your's is working, just not set for the blade you are using.
That is not the P20. It is the older 20" that is basicly the same as the 16" VS older Delta saws. They made it for a few years then dropped it from the line. I have never had a chance to run one, but I had heard they had a vibration problem compared to the 16".

[workin for wood]

great, will do, thanx Rick. If it shakes alot, I'll anchor it to the floor and use it to mix paint and make milk shakes.

[GrayBeard Phil]

Jeff: (very long post.)

Looks to me your saw is a Delta 40-640

1- The Quickset II blade clamp. Tighten the side screw until the blade is loose, but there is some light friction holding the blade. This will change for each size blade. Then bring (swing) the lever forward. This will apply the correct pressure. These clamps do wear out, and need to be replaced occationally cost about $25.00 from amazon.com.

2- Looking at your picture, the light blue painted assembly and the black upper arm assembly area. Underneath the tip of the black upper arm assembly is supposed to be a rubber grommet. Replace it. Delta part # 1343631 With some fiddle, you can rotate the entire blue upper 'blade support' assembly to get at the location for the grommet from below. A new rubber grommet really helps reduce vibration.

3 - Hidden by the black plastic cover on the rear left side, is two large bolts holding the upper and lower arms in place. Remove the pivot bolts and clean very, very well as they are a sleeve bearings. Also clean the inside of the bearings on the arms. Re-install with SAE 20, or 30 wt non-detergent motor oil. Blue can 3-in-1 oil (electric motor) is just fine. Don't use the Red Can. Bolts need to be cleaned and re-lubed every 20 hours of use, or once a month. CAUTION: DON'T OVER TORQUE ON RE-INSTALL OF PIVOT BOLTS. very easy to over torque the threads in the soft iron body of saw. Also watch the cross threading.

4- The motor is attached to the lower arm by two small, and in-expensive sealed ball bearings. There is a bearing housing linkage holding the bearings, as it attachés to the lower arm and the motor. Replace the bearings. About $15.00 (maybe $20.00) each at a bearing supply house, IIRC. Replacing the standard stock bearing will solve some vibration problems.

5- The air puff dust blower has a plastic bellows that is worked by the upper arm. I think the original part # 1343625 for the blower, you may not be able to get a replacement from Delta (or is PG, or B&D??)

6- The rear of the two arms is connected by a special linkage arm to keep the arms a parallel arm saw. By use this upper and lower arm linkage gets worn. Long, long story short, there ends up a micro-second delay between the drive arm (lower) and the upper arm as the stroke goes from the lower arm pushing or pulling the upper arm. This very small out of sync will end up causing blade breakage. Again long story. No adjustment, or repair is possible.

7- bottom line of above #6, as the special rear linkage gets old and used a lot, it takes more, and more blade tension to keep the blades from breaking. This then takes more blade chuck tension. Also more vibration.

8- The VS controller breaks down after a while, Delta does not offer any replacement parts when it fails.

10- check the motor commutators, that saw seems to have been used hard.

11- Woodcraft at one time sold replacement table inserts that fit just fine.

Good luck with that saw.

Phil

[Mick Walker]

Jeff, I had that same saw for 10 years and never had a vibration problem. I did have a problem with the small rubber grommet that Phil talked about, it kept popping out and then I had to take the top assembly apart to replace it. I finally talked to a guy from Delta and he told me to use some silicone adhesive to keep it in place. Never had a problem after that. The VS problem can be fixed with a foot switch. I very seldom changed the speed on it. You need a special wrench to tighten or loosen the bottom blade clamp unless someone changed it. Keep it well lubricated as per Phil's instruction and it should last a long time. I finally sold it and got the P-20 so I could top feed.
good luck with it.