HVLP Sprayer info needed

[snkysnake]

I am considering getting a sprayer, and need some imput. Wagner makes one , I think it's the "FineSpray" for around a hundred dollars. I need something relativly inexspensive, that will do stains and varnishes. Any imput and suggestions that you might have would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure there is a learning curve with a sprayer, but my results with a brush are driving me nuts. Larry

[PeteB]

What kinds of items are you finishing and what kinds of problems are you having?

The reason I ask is that I cannot imagine a wood project that cannot be finished by dipping, wiping, or brushing.

I suggest that you give some details as to exactly what you're trying to do, and I'm sure you'll get lots of good advice. One thing I can tell you is that the directions they put on cans are usually crap!

Pete

[snkysnake]

Well, I recently did a project in 3/4 inch oak, with some interior cuts. I stained it with a golden oak stain, then let it dry for 24 hrs. Then I applied minwax sanding sealer to seal the open pores ( to prep it for a glass smooth polyurethane finish) It took about 10 or 11 coats of sanding sealer, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool between coats. I ended up with a really smooth finish on it, that sanding sealer is great. I put on the first coat of Polyurethane, with a natural brush like it reccomended. I got a few minor runs, but I knew that I'd be sanding it out with 220 per the directions. When I lightly sanded it , most of the poly seemed to come off. I recoated it, and tried it again. Same result. Then I took it down to the sanding sealer, and tried Deft spray on. The finish looked really spotty with that one, so I took it off too. I ended up completing the project with a "hand rubbed" sanding sealer finish..LOL It looks great, but not the poly finish that I intended. Maybe it's just lack of experience on my part, but I have done tables and dressers in the past, with none of these problems. I'm thinking that maybe with a HVLP sprayer I can get a more consistent finish. I'm open to any and all suggestions here..Thanks...Larry

[PeteB]

I'm surprised that this didn't get picked up by some other folk, maybe because it's a tool question that turned into a finishing discussion...

Well, I happen to have a can of Minwax sanding sealer right here (love the stuff for those hand-rubbed finishes ) and it says that it is for use on bare wood, and if the wood is stained it is not necessary to apply SS prior to topcoating.

So maybe next time just skip the sealer? Poly varnish on top of poly sealer ought to be all right, but I'm guessing that the well-buffed sealer finish left nothing for the varnish to grip to and so it sloughed off.

Just read the instructions again and see that they recommend sanding with 120 grit, so I'll bet the smooth primer finish was the problem.

Looks like the can was right after all! My earlier comment about directions was that they often don't say anything about thinning to get a good flow, sanding between coats, and rubbing out the final finish.

Pete

[William Young (SE BC)]

Hi Larry.
I have had a HVLP coversion gun for about 5 or 6 years now and cannot imagine being without it.
I have sprayed hundreds of fretwork clocks and other cuttings with lacquer with it and it also sprays thicker paints as well.
I am the worlds worst paint brush finisher . I get runs all over everything and just detest brushing no matter what quality of brush I use. But that is just me. Some people are very good at brush painting and actually like doing it.
I recently got an old glider rocker real cheap because it was litterally falling apart. I completely dissassenmled it into over 50 pieces and rebuilt it . I even put 8 new bearings in it because the old ones were badly worn.
In the past week I have applied two coats of primer on it and two coats of semi gloss finish paint on it with my HVLP sprayer. The finish is satin smooth with not a run anywhere. It is as good as any factory sprayed job. If I had painted it by hand there would be runs everywhere on it.
My wife is now recovering the rubber foam cushions for the seat and the back.

So you see, a HVLP gun is a versatile finishing tool for all kinds of things. I also sprayed my teak kitchen table with the same gun a few years ago.

W.Y.

[snkysnake]

Pete and Bill, thanks for the imput. Pete I agree with your post to a certain extent, you got the directions correct..But... If you want to stain the wood, and ..the wood is very porus , you can't seal the pores before the stain, you have to do it after. The poly wasn't sluffing off, I was sanding it off. I guess maybe I'm too heavy handed. Like Bill, I am terrible with brush finishes , especially on anything scrolled. That's why I'm tempted to try a spray gun. Bill can you reccomend any HVLP guns to look at? maybe in a couple of price ranges... I was looking at an air pistol on the Lee Valley web site. (item #03KO301 ) Could you take a peek at that one Bill and give me an opinion? I think maybe air driven wouldn't be good because of the potential for introducing moisture into the poly? Thanks for the help guys...Larry

[William Young (SE BC)]

Larry;
The LV part number you supplied comes up as cannot be found in the L V site. Maybe a typo? I copied it here and pasted it there in both their Canadian and US sites. .
Mine is a conversion HVLP gun which means it works with my compressor rather than with a turbine.
No moisture problem at all with polys . It was poly that I sprayed my kitchen table with. Just put a drier in the line and it will collect any moisture coming through with the air before it reaches the gun .
There are some really bad HVLP sprayers and some really good ones. Usually a case of getting what you pay for. I would suggest keeping at least above $150.00 for a conversion HVLP gun and more than that if buying one with a separate turbine.
Places like NAPA auto parts stores are generally a good place to get a HVLP gun because they cater to auto body shops. They asked me if I wanted a $350.00 one made by Binks with the Binks name on it or the identical gun made without the Binks name on it for $169.00. I bought the one for $169.00 and it has served me real well.
W.Y.

[snkysnake]

sorry Bill, I found it again..try this...Air-Powered Spray Gun
03K03.01 It's in the finishing section of the web site

[William Young (SE BC)]

Hi Larry.
I found it.
It is also known a the little critter sprayer and available some places for a lot less. .
I wouldn't take it as a gift. Definitely not HVLP and it is more of a splatter gun than a sprayer from some reports I have heard. I did hear a couple people say they used one over the years but better for rough finishing than for good finishing.
W.Y.

[snkysnake]

Thanks Bill, good to have some solid imput , I'll avoid that one. Maybe when the retirement check gets here I'll check out the auto parts store. I was kinda looking at a Campbell Hausfeld that lists for $199. I didn't really want to spend that much, but the wagner and the CH are the only two I've come across that aren't too exspensive. Thanks Bill...larry