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| | #1 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 314
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Don't recall seeing this addressed before. I have had a problem separating stacked pieces, especially if they are thin and delicate. I went to Wal Mart and bought the thinnest butcher knife that they had and it works just fine. I start it in a corner and gently rock it back and forth while exerting a mild downward pressure. I've had a lot of success doing it this way, but you still need to use a lot of care. I've also had to start it from different corners if the piece is rather large.
__________________ Buzz We Danes are very even tempered. We're always mad about something! |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 151
| How do you "glue" your stacks together in the first place?? |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 1,417
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Buzz that looks like the knife used in the movie Psycho. Bob
__________________ Delta P-20 & Q-3 Ever notice that anyone going slower than you is an idiot, but anyone going faster than you is a maniac? |
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| | #4 |
| Banned Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 780
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Buzz. I'm not a scroller, this is just an idea, why don't you try putting some wax paper between the pieces, the wax paper should prevent the pieces from sticking together. Mac |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Hamilton Ontario
Posts: 1,225
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I don't do a lot of stack cutting, unless I'm making identical sides for lamps or boxes. I use to use double stick tape and had a terrible time separating the pieces until someone introduced me to mineral spirits. I pour a bit of mineral spirits on the piece and allow it to seep into the cracks between the layers, they come apart pretty easy that way, the mineral spirits also loosens any glue residue that's left behind and it wipes off easily. Now I tape the pieces together by wrapping 2" masking tape around the stack, apply the pattern and away I go, easy to come apart and no glue residue to deal with. Just my 2¢ worth Marsha |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: KENTUCKY
Posts: 243
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I just use screws in the waste areas then un screw it. No problems ! Rain Man
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,335
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Buzz, I use very tiny brads nailed into the waste area. I have a 10" piece of railroad track that I set the wood on while hammering the brads in to flatten them when they poke through. The brads also make nice little handles to use while cutting.
__________________ Mick, - Delta P-20 The future ain't what it used to be. |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 558
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Just Thursday I was in a store and a guy was demonstrating the Ginsu knife. Hadn't heard about that one for a long time. It was thin and only $19.99. BUT WAIT THERES MORE. That day only you would get not one but TWO for $19.99. BUT WAIT THERES MORE. Just so they can sell more, they would throw in a THIRD |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 558
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Sorry -- I hit the wrong key. knife to give to a friend to show them how great they were. BWTM. You also get a chef's knife AND two paring knives -- all for the low low price of $19.99. What a deal. I passed it up. Earl |
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| | #10 |
| Scroller/Turner Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Wynndel, British Columbia Canada
Posts: 710
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I do a lot of stack sawing. I use a similar method to Mick only I use a 18 guage brad nailer . I have brads in half a dozen different lengths so I always have the right length for the stack. Just bang, bang , bang into the waste areas and then off to the drill press to drill the entry holes and then saw it out and the separate pieces are completely free of each other on the last cut. W.Y.
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/willyswoodcrafting The task ahead of us is never as great as the power behind us Delta P-20 Scroll Saw, 14" x 43" Craftex Wood Lathe and Jet 10" Mini Lathe . |
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