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Old 07-16-2014, 04:36 PM   #11
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And I thought bows were fidgety!
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:52 PM   #12
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LOL, this is way easier than your beautiful bows, Carole.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:07 PM   #13
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I'm not going to show every piece cut, but you can see my next progression....I am going to move my next cut to an adjacent piece, and remember to have good interlocks, since these are outside edge pieces, which will be especially instrumental at holding the inside pieces tightly together.














Again, since this piece will only have up to two layers (the fence), I can discard a layer. I will keep my base layer intact, as always, and cut my picture layer as I did before.



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Old 07-16-2014, 08:16 PM   #14
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Shawn,
I love this step by step process. Thank you for sharing.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:16 PM   #15
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After carefully removing the paper with the grass on it, and regluing everything the same as I did with the first piece, we now have our first interlocking pair.


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Old 07-16-2014, 08:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Shawn,
I love this step by step process. Thank you for sharing.
Virgil

You're welcome, Virgil!

I certainly learn enough from so many forum members here, I never mind "giving back."
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:24 PM   #17
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I might even get brave enough to try the puzzle in your magazine article.

By the way, where does one locate public domain pictures for puzzles?
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:35 PM   #18
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Great stuff, Shawn! I still need to dig out my saw so I can get that one we discussed a while back done.

Virgil, I think all of the major search engines allow you to limit image searches based on the license. For example: landscape - Bing Images

I also like the Dover clip-art books which compile a number of license free images in specific styles onto a single CD. For example: 120 Great Fairy Paintings CD-ROM and Book (Dover Electronic Clip Art): Jeff A. Menges: 9780486997414: Amazon.com: Books
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:18 PM   #19
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You can also just look for old art, Virgil......anything created before 1923 is in the public domain.
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:55 AM   #20
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For brevity, I have skipped ahead several pieces, and as you can see I am now approaching the girl, which will be our first three layered portion.




As I consider where to cut my next piece, I have to strategize my next connecting edge piece. I can place my interlocking tab on the grass, adjacent to the girl's foot, but the space is kind of tight there. I think I will therefore extend the piece onto her dress, and make my interlock there.

This particular piece will have three individual portions of thickness.....the grass (one layer), the fence (two layers) and the girls dress and shoe (three layers).

Since I am now cutting a three layer thick interlock, I have to consider my blade choice. Interlocks tend to be naturally tight fitting, and with the slight bevel which sometimes results when cutting thick wood with a fine, flexible puzzle blade, the pieces can become too tight fitting. I am therefore going to step up to a FD-Penguin Silver #3 for these pieces, which allow an adequately wide kerf, and less bevel.




I'm going to remove my base layer (as always) and set it aside.





Now, since I am shaping a three layer thick piece, I am not discarding a layer, but am cutting my picture portions apart with the two remaining layers stacked on top one another. AFTER cutting the portions apart, I will discard one of the fence layers, since I only need to go two high, and one of the grass layers, but will retain both layers of the girl.




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