Stand-Up Puzzles: Blades and Paint

[Scrolling Days]

I think a common question which comes up regarding stand up puzzles, is regarding blades and kerf width, and whether or not to paint the edges of pieces.

I thought I would pose this to the collective expertise on the forum. For cutters who enjoy making these types of puzzles:

1. What type and size blade do you find gives you the best results?

2. Do you paint the edges of pieces? If so, do you encounter problems with the kerf being too tight, and need to use a wider blade?

[Terry Murphy]

This is something that I do have a problem with.
I love the painted ones, but mine just can't do it.

[wood-n-things]

I typically use 3/4" stock for my stand up puzzles. That being said I usually use a #5 FD UR or Polar depending on hardness of the wood used. If I need to paint a puzzle I don't paint the interior edges only the 2 outside faces and around the exposed outside edge but not where 2 pieces will touch. If the customer wants the interior edges painted as well I need to go to a #7 blade and paint a very thin coat of paint.

I'm finally experimenting with my air brush and I find that the wood grain does not raise nearly as much as if I use a brush to paint. I have not tried this on puzzles yet though so can not attest to it's affect on interior cuts.

[Arcy]

Good and timely question: I hope to try some painted puzzles this week.

A third question is what woods to use for painted puzzles? I normally choose based on availability (still relevant) and wood color & grain (not so much). Is a light colored wood better for coverage with less paint?

I typically use a 3/4" hardwood and a FD UR #5 for stand-up puzzles, but I haven't painted them. I'll probably try both that and a wider kerf. Like Mike, I want to figure out the airbrush, but I also expect some of the painting this week to be done by 4 and 7 year olds.

My only previous attempt at a painted puzzle was failed tray puzzle which turned into a plaque after the paint seized up the kerfs.

--Rob

[hap]

I usually use 3/4 hardwood as most people do. Most of the time I use Olson PG#5. If the turns for the pins are real tight I will use a PG#3. If you are going to paint, poplar is a good choice and less expensive than most hardwoods. I would only paint the outside surfaces. I've tried using clear pine, so I could have lower priced items at shows. But, I find it too soft, pieces break, and you end up with unhappy people.

Harold

[JimSawyer]

I seem to use Penguin Silver reverse #5 for everything.
I use them for stand up puzzles too.
I find that when I paint the sides, I have to wait a few days for the paint to thoroughly dry, then play test them a bit to make sure they'll play fair.
As long as everything is dry, it works for me....

[wwalker47]

I use Flying Dutchman Polar #3 blades and I do not paint the inside edges, that just makes them too restrictive to get in or out. I use 3/4" stock, as well.

-Bill

[Marsha]

I use 3/4" ply for all my standup puzzles, I use a FD PSR #5 blade for all cuttings. I paint all sides of the pieces with acrylic paint, and I sand and clean between each coat, usually 2 coats on the sides and 3 coats on the top and bottom. I thin the paint with water for the first coat, this acts as a primer. I use sanding sponges for the sanding, medium and fine. And yes, I paint by hand, with a small brush. During the painting process I continually play with the pieces to make sure they slide in and out after each coat of paint. I don't generally use a top coat. Once the pieces are completely dry, usually the next day, I buff them with brown paper.
I use the same painting procedure for all my tray puzzles as well,

That's my 2¢ worth, hope it helps.
Marsha

[JimSawyer]

Excellent Marsha..!!

I forgot to mention that I also thin my paint...a lot..!!

[Scrolling Days]

Thanks everyone for all of the nice, well thought out responses!

From what i've read here and elsewhere on the forum, it seems that painting the inside edges is more of a preferential thing....some do, and some don't. As experimentation, i cut a stand up puzzle yesterday using my very thin puzzle blade (i was using 1/2 inch MDF stock i had handy) and painted the inner edges.....just wanted to test the extreme circumstance and go from there. Although i was surprisingly able to get the pieces back together after the paint dried, the pieces were definitely too tight and in some cases had to be forced. I'm trying a similar one now using a #5 UR blade. LOL, i'm so used to my puzzle blades, the #5 feels like a piece of rebar

Now i have to settle on a painting technique i'm happy with......Big Mike has piqued my curiosity about the air brush thing. Currently, i'm using acrylic craft paint from JoAnne Fabric, but i thing i want to use something with a smoother distribution, and a finish which pops a bit more.

There are so many "masters" on this forum, i hope people continue to chime in. I read in another thread that John B likes to use semigloss acrylics with 320 grit sandings between two coats. I always admire his finishes, so maybe i'll try that......i found a nice paint like that online which comes in crafter-sized containers.

Marsha, you sound like you do something like this as well....what kind of finish do you prefer (flat, semigloss, etc)?

Mike, i'd also like to learn more about your beeswax finish, if it is something you like to share.....sounds like a nice, non-toxic option.