Puzzle cutting question

[cpowell]

What kind or size blade do you puzzle cutters use? My wife wants me to cut some for the grandkids. I tried today on some half inch plywood using an FD 5 and then a polar blade. I didn't expect the ply to jump and buck so wildly. I expected some, but not that much. The blade tension was good as I checked that as perhaps the reason.

Maybe I need to change to solid pine. Is that the trick or do I need a different blade?



I moved your thread to a more appropriate forum to maximize traffic and get you more responses to your post/request/question.

[HAMMER]

I am not a puzzle cutter but if you contact Mike of mikes work shop I'll bet he could have an answer. Then again there are several puzzle makers on this forum.

Just a though on the pine it needs to be real dry or you will start having problems as the sap will burn and the baldes will break do to the heat from the friction caused by the sap.

Just my experence for what it is worth.

[Bob Coltharp]

You have arrived at the right forum. There are experts here that can give you more than enough information and ideas. If you could clarify whether you are interested in jigsaw puzzles which many times are made from 1/4" baltic birch plywood (as well as others), a tray puzzle which provides a "tray" for the very young puzzler to assemble the puzzle in, or what I call "block puzzles" (sorry I don't know the proper name) which are typically 1/2" thick and might be something like a animal that can be stood up when assembled I am sure that you will get a lot of information. Of course, you can also browse or do a search on this forum and find what you want. Just to let you know, this can become addictive.

Bob

[wood-n-things]

I'm one of many puzzle heads on this forum. I typically use a #3-#5 Ultra reverse for stand up puzzle when using 3/4" thick or thicker wood. If I'm doing a tray style puzzle, those are generally for children so i use the #5UR you don't want to tight a fit for the youngsters. When I do a typical jig saw style puzzle I use the superior puzzle blade from Mike at Mikes workshop. If I am going to paint a puzzle I use a #7UR FD blade compound puzzles I use #5 Polar blade.

Now those may or may not work for you depending on your skill level, complexity of pattern and density of species of wood used.


UR=Ultra Reverse
FD=Flying Dutchman

[cpowell]

Wow!

More than I know what to do with right now. I was planning to make tray puzzles for toddlers, something really simple like frogs or cartoon animals for them. Also was planning to make some for older kids, on the order of dinosaurs. These might be stand ups from, I"m thinking half or one inch pine. They will be painted with details added then rather than cut.

I hope this helps for you to help me or give me ideas to start.

Wood; I have not seen a "superior puzzle blade" listed on Mike's site. Is it a specialty item or do I need to call for more info or have I just missed it?

[hap]

I do a lot of stand up puzzles. I do most with a #5 reverse. If there are a lot of tight turns cutting the pins, I use a #3.

Try using poplar. It paints well, if you are painting. Also its harder that pine. I've had narrow pins on a pine puzzle crack when they were dropped and hit at the right angle on oa hardwood floor. I think my grandson had it 2 days whwn it happened.

Harold

[Arcy]

Add another vote for #5UR for stand-up puzzles. I usually cut from 3/4 maple, walnut, or cherry since those cut nicely and are easily available surfaced from my local lumber yard. If I have to shop at the big orange store then I like poplar as well. I generally try to avoid pine unless I'm going much thicker (you can get some interesting effects cutting out 2x10s).

The Superior Puzzle Blade is about 3/4 the way down the page at http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades . You should be able to find it with an in-page search once you're there. They don't work well on stand-up puzzles (note to self: don't use the blade that happened to be in the saw from last time), but they're great for 1/4" jigsaw puzzles.

I'd lean towards larger blades for painted tray puzzles. I've only done one so far, but it didn't turn out well. My lovely tight kerfs were hard to keep open when I painted, and the locks were too tight for the children it was intended for.

--Rob

[cpowell]

Thanks for the input and I'll check out the puzzle blade. I guess I missed it. When I get one done I'll post it for sure.

[Dee Rogers]

for your bucking problem, just lower your guard closer to your wood when you cut

[3_M]

"for your bucking problem".
You need more speed and lower feed rate. If not, the blade starts to grab the wood instead of cutting it. Let the blade do the cutting.
Good tension, good speed and low feed rate.
Go to Mike's Workshop selling Flying Dutchman brand fret and scrollsaw blades and it is the fourth one from the bottom.
I would not use it for small children, a # 3 or 5 would be better.
FD Mike