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Old 12-23-2009, 06:13 PM   #11
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Thanks a bunch. I'll be doing several of these for sure!

This one deserved to be a sticky as well! So I made it one.
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:27 PM   #12
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Very cool and very evil.

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Originally Posted by iohonnes View Post
double cutting can be used in normal puzzles too.
I may try to make a piece that fits into two places in a smallish puzzle and see if I survive the experience. It'd definitely be too nasty for my crowd on a big puzzle. They generally expect that once a piece fits in, it's in the right place to stay!

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Old 12-23-2009, 08:42 PM   #13
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I may try to make a piece that fits into two places in a smallish puzzle and see if I survive the experience.
I'm waiting for the right normal puzzle to put a couple of double cut pieces into. Because I want the victim to have maximum "enjoyment", I want to ensure that the pieces are the same exact color. That pretty much limits me to certain types of graphic art, where areas of "flat" color exist. Most paintings and photos have a color gradient to them - you know, where the sky slowly changes shades of blue across the length of the puzzle. Most puzzlers would notice the subtle change in color between pieces.

I'll post if I ever find the right puzzle.

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Old 12-24-2009, 01:34 AM   #14
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That's exactly what I was thinking, John. This would work well in something Kandinsky-ish.

I've been digitally painting my own puzzle images, so I can either put in a flat color or (muahahahaha) duplicate a colour blend.

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Old 12-25-2009, 01:28 PM   #15
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Kathy (my wife) has started working on it; she knows it is a trick puzzle but she can't quite figure out the trick. She's not pleased at the moment. She'll be less pleased when she figures out the trick (or is that a lack of a trick?).
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:38 PM   #16
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I look forward to trying this in a regular puzzle. Thanks for the tutorial, John!
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:40 AM   #17
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If I ever gave that puzzle to my wife or granddaughter, I would be sleeping in the sawdust pile for a long, long, time. What a truly devilish idea.

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Old 02-17-2010, 08:49 AM   #18
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Cute - keep us informed about your sleeping quarters. (smile_
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iohonnes View Post
I then cut the piece using a FD-SP blade. The blade is very thin and not intended to cut through 1/2" material
What number blade is this ? I went to Mike's site and see several FD-SP blades. Such as FD-SP-Rev and FD-SP-FE and so on. Can you tell me what I am looking for ?

The reason I ask is I cut one of these puzzles this evening and it came out great except there is too much "play" in the pieces. Even with a 3/4" larger Prime A piece it is almost possible to stretch the puzzle to fit. It does not fit because the angle of the last fit is off due to the stretching, but almost does. Someone will try to muscle this together and break it with the play I have in the cuts. I used a FD-UR No 3 blade.

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Old 12-22-2010, 02:17 PM   #20
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Quote:
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What number blade is this ? I went to Mike's site and see several FD-SP blades. Such as FD-SP-Rev and FD-SP-FE and so on. Can you tell me what I am looking for ?
Bob, I use the Superior Puzzle blades (FD-SP) from Mike. He sells other blades with various designations of FD-SP (as you wrote) but these are the ones that are just FD-SP. They don't have a size number, although they are probably similar to a 00 or 000. They are extremely thin and are great for making jigsaw puzzles. They are not good for cutting thicker material, because of their size.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayward View Post
The reason I ask is I cut one of these puzzles this evening and it came out great except there is too much "play" in the pieces. Even with a 3/4" larger Prime A piece it is almost possible to stretch the puzzle to fit. It does not fit because the angle of the last fit is off due to the stretching, but almost does. Someone will try to muscle this together and break it with the play I have in the cuts. I used a FD-UR No 3 blade.
I'm guessing that the puzzle stretches so much because you used a No. 3 blade and the additional play that gives the pieces. There is limited play when you use a really thin blade like the FD-SP; the trade off is that it is difficult to do the double cut with the FD-SP - they just weren't designed for that. If I were to do it again, I would probably use a No. 1 as a compromise. And you are correct - if the puzzle "looks" like it might stretch, someone will break it. I have the original on my desk at work and the first thing I tell people is that they shouldn't have to force anything.

Another thing I would do differently is the alignment and attachment of the double cut pieces. Earlier this year I made a cool scrabble puzzle with double cuts and I used guidemarks, pilot holes, and screws to attach the sections very accurately and securely. I did use the FD-SP blades for those double cuts; it went really well. I'm wondering if the use of screws to secure the sections help lessen the vibration between the sections and helped make the cuts "cleaner".

Feel free to ask anymore questions, either here or PM.

John
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