Red oak puzzles

[hap]

I like the look of red oak. But, I always have difficulty cutting interlocking puzzles using it. No matter how slow I cut, the blade doesn't stay square and the pins are not accurate. The pieces fit from bottom to top, or top to bottom.
But, not both. I check the blade and it is square to the table and tighten the tension as much as I can. Should I just give it up and use another material? I don't have the problem with pine or aspen.

HAP

[Ocelot]

From my experience, if the pieces go in on way but not the other and the table and blade are perfectly square, it usually means you're putting sideways pressure on the blade while cutting.

When you put sideways pressure on the blade it can give the same effect as having a misaligned table.

You could also be pushing too hard. Oak is hard and a good sharp blade is needed. With any cut, the feed rate should be just enough pressure to move forward without bending the blade back. With the oak being harder than say pine or plywood, you could be pushing harder.

Ray

[handibunny]

In addition to the suggestions already given, try cutting a small circle out of the same oak you're using. It might help you see more clearly where you're applying too much pressure. I tend to push the blade to the right, and find that if I make an extra effort to stay straight, I get a better cut. Also, backing off frequently to let the blade right itself helps too.

[hap]

Thanks to both of you. I'll try your suggestions. I may be pushing too hard, I'm used to contruction cutting, this is a differnt world.

HAP

[lucky788scroller]

Take your time and let the blade do the work. You shouldnt have any trouble cutting through 3/4th inch thick red oak. Patience Hap.... patience!

[sawdustus]

Hap, I cut a lot of stand up puzzles, both from the Peterson books and of my own design. Red oak is hard to cut, and the hardness differences of the winter and summer growth rings is pronounced. Here are the tricks I use to avoid beveled cuts, especially around the tabs.

1. Your blade must be sharp and as tight as you can get it without it breaking just by starting up the saw.

2. Let the blade do the cutting. Don't push it, and go slowly around the tabs, especially if they are small and the curves tight.

3. I put my index finger near the blade to act as a pivot and spin the wood around my finger rather than trying to use the blade as a pivot. Every time I use the blade as a pivot point, I get a beveled cut.

4. I usually use a #5 skip tooth blade for most of my puzzles but you might want to try a #7 to make a bigger kerf. Don't try a #7 on a puzzle with small tabs and thin pieces, trust me, it just won't work.

I have recently been trying a #2 blade on some Sapele puzzles. As long as I change blades every piece or two it makes for a very tight fitting puzzle. Don't know how it will be after a dip in Watco. Hopefully it will still go together.

george