Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
* Browse over 200,000 posts.
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team.
| ||LinkBack||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
|07-09-2009, 10:24 PM||#1|
How to finish puzzles
I was wandering what was the best way to finish jigsaw puzzles!!
|07-09-2009, 10:57 PM||#2|
Puzzle Making Muggle
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hogwarts (the House Elves kind of dig me)
Blog Entries: 5
Thanked 285 Times in 229 Posts
What are you referring to? How to finish a wood stand-up type puzzle, or how to finish/protect paper on a jigsaw paper?
Here is an earlier thread which dealt a lot with the former.
With the latter, some people use no finish at all, others use something like a Triple Thick Glaze, and others Mod Podge. I would experiment and find what works best for you.
Come visit at The Ferguson Puzzle Company !
|07-09-2009, 11:04 PM||#3|
Yes I was refering to Jigsaw puzzles with Paper on the wood/photo on wood. Etc..
|07-10-2009, 10:58 AM||#4|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Near Detroit, Michigan
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
This is from what I know... which may not be what others know....
All jigsaw puzzles are subjected to a lot of handling. The object of the finish to to protect the graphic from fingerprints, oil and salt from potato chips butter popcorn and peanuts, plus beverage drink spills from coffee and soda. Also, some people will clean puzzles with house-hold cleaners like Windex, dust cleaners, and so forth.
You don't want a finish that will in anyway attack or obscure the graphic or paper on which the graphic is printed on: color / hue shift, dissolve the inks causing smearing, adding any hazy viewing of graphic (satin finish for example), or cause the paper to wrinkle or come apart.
You will want an easy to apply, in-expensive, and which will not require an OSHA breathing painter's masks. You also want a finish that will flatten out any sags and runs or brush marks that you may make in applying the finish.
Quick drying finish is also desirable.
There may be other considerations I am not able think of at this moment.
Spray cans of clear acrylic finish seems to fill all of the above; Triple-Thick Glaze is one example of this type of finish. There are several "decoupage finishes" like Mod-poge which many like; applied by brush. (I personally have problems of Mod-poge leaving brush marks and not leveling out as it cures to my liking. Carter Johnson has a work-around that may work for you.)
I tried a clear acrylic finish I purchased in a Big Box home improvement store sold under the Rust-Oleum brand name. The finish went on easy, and clear. However, after 6 or 7 months the finish now seems cloudy, not clear and transparent like Triple-Thick Glaze given same time frame.
Please don't do as I did and apply too many coats. You only need one or two coats to prevent finger prints and smudges. Long story as to what happens if you apply too many coats, and then cut the puzzle.
|07-12-2009, 01:07 PM||#6|
Join Date: Mar 2009
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I recently did a jig saw puzzle on 1/4 Baltic birch. The picture was one of a family group.
As the puzzle is intended for the children, I cut large pieces, leaving the faces whole and put a finish on the photo before cutting. As my father-in-law used to say, it will last from 12 to noon.
Hoping for a few hours longer life, I used polyurethene [oil base] finish that was cut with petroleum solvent about 10%. I applied the finish with a cotton swab and gave it three coats.
The cotton swab is simply a wad of absorbing type of cotton balled up to form the applicator. I wiped on enough finish to just "wet' the surface. No drips or runs this way and no brush marks either. After ample drying time, I applied the next coat.
My goal was to protect the finish against young fingers.
I prefer the oil base as it is a floor quality and therefore hopefully a tougher finish.
|07-12-2009, 01:45 PM||#7|
Join Date: Mar 2005
Thanked 74 Times in 62 Posts
All my puzzles are coated before they are cut with one thick coating of any Triple-thick Glaze spray. I've never understood applying anything to the puzzle after it's cut. My pieces fit so tight that any additional covering would make them stick and would not add any additional protection.
Have phun..... Carter
|07-17-2009, 02:45 PM||#8|
Thanks to all of you for the input. I just used a pice of laminate and it cut good ,But a few of the corner edges seem like they might come loose after time. I am going to try the Acrylic spray next. I seen 1 that was Polyacrylic will that work or just Acrylic.
Lucky's Custom Scrolling
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|What finish to use---||Old Dust 1||General Scroll Saw||1||01-29-2012 06:50 PM|
|Need for a finish||Lois from Mississauga||Wood Finishing and Painting||6||03-04-2008 10:11 AM|
|do you put your finish on first or last.||minowevie||Wood Finishing and Painting||8||08-05-2006 03:12 PM|
|Photo puzzles... Finish \ protect before or after?||harrisg||General Scroll Saw||3||12-29-2005 08:07 PM|
|Finish for childrens toys and puzzles||harrisg||Wood Finishing and Painting||3||12-05-2005 01:44 PM|