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Old 09-09-2011, 05:45 PM   #41
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Glen, I = and many puzzle cutters on this forum - use Flying Dutchman "Superior Puzzle Blades" available from Mikesworkshop.com. Get some for any of your fine work. They take a little getting used to because they're so thin and sharp, but the results will be worth it.

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Old 09-14-2011, 07:18 PM   #42
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Default fuzzy edges

How do you keep from having fuzzy edges? I have tried putting a blank board on top with a puzzle pattern on the blank. But I always have fuzzy edges without the top piece.
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:04 AM   #43
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Glen, I'm a little confused by what you mean with "fuzzy edges". If your blade teeth are pointing down, there should be no fuzzies on top - and the bottom only needs a quick sanding to get rid of any residue. After I cut 30 - 40 pieces, I usually stop, turn my little triangle sander upside down and touch the bottoms of the pieces to it. Then when it's finished and together, I turn it over and run the sander of the bottom.

Certainly there should be no need to use another board when cutting. And what are you using a pattern for anyway??? I can't imagine putting a pattern on a top board. You can't see the picture and could be cutting right through someone's eyes in a photo.

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Old 02-15-2012, 01:12 PM   #44
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Here are two ideas for those who want to use a pattern, but still be able to see the picture so they do not cut across a person's face. I have not tried these ideas - would they work?

#1) Just thought of this idea. Print (via a laser printer) the pattern onto a clear presentation/overhead sheet of plastic.

2) Another idea is to add the pattern to the image itself. The pattern would be a second "layer" in Photoshop. Use very thin (1 pixel wide) lines. There are multiple issues to overcome:
Would need to cut accurately - stay on the line so the blade/kerf cuts away the line. If the line is just slightly missed, and the color and brightness/darkness of the line is not much different than the image, perhaps it would not be noticeable though.

Second issue is what color to use for the lines - if the line is black, it won't be visible in dark areas of the image. There might be a way to merge the layers together such that the lines change color or brightness such that the line never matches the background (there are many options that I have never tried - screen, multiply; etc).
......
I'm one of those who "worry" that if I cut freehand, I would not include enough round knobs, and the pieces would not hold together well enough (and other potential mistakes). I suppose it does not matter though unless the puzzle is going to stand up. Puzzles used to have no knobs at all.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:24 PM   #45
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Block,
I'm afraid your suggestions would not work for my puzzle cutting. I would not want my family or customers to see the lines I may have strayed off of or missed, so printing the lines on the photo is definitely not an option for me. Also i prefer not to use a grid in the first place. I have taken Carters advice several years ago to freehand cut and have never looked back. The only time I use a grid is when I may mark the edges of my photo with a piece of tailors chalk if I have to have a specific piece count for a wedding puzzle for instance where there are a pre determined number of pieces required.

Don't be too hard on yourself regarding the locking tabs, if you miss one so what. Miss a few more and tell the recipient it was intentional to make the puzzle one level higher in the difficulty range...They won't know.

Share some pics of your work...we love pics.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:46 PM   #46
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I agree - in many projects (such as building a deck), only the builder notices little "errors". Maybe I ought to practice cutting a few freehand on cardboard to gain confidence and practice. It would be a LOT easier/quicker than farting around with a pattern.

Some people beat me to the Photoshop idea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JewjwWvEoWY&feature=related

My audio is not working, but the video remiddns me of another idea I have (near the end, he moves a piece around in PS). Instead of drawing the lines in PS, "cut" the image into separate puzzle pieces with a slight distance between each piece, then print it out. Then you'd have 2x more cutting to do however, and the pieces probably would not fit together well.

So, the overhead transparency idea is a safer bet - if I veer off the line slightly, it's the same as free handing and doesn't matter. The plastic might lubricate the blade as a bonus.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:55 PM   #47
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I enjoyed watching the video and for a cover photo for a finished puzzle I find it quite helpful, but time consuming. I still prefer to use the freehand style and I promise you will too once you practice it for a while. Good luck!
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:20 AM   #48
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Default Great Video

I think you did a great job. I am amazed out how fast you can scroll those pieces. I am just venturing into puzzle making on my scroll saw.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:48 AM   #49
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Carter, every time I see your video, I am reminded of what a great public speaking voice you have. You should get your son use your voice in one of his flicks.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:43 PM   #50
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Thanks so much for posting your videos! I LOVE them, I am also excited to check out Wild Wood Designs for 5 ply poplar, I usually go to Menards and get 1/4 inch birch, so it would be nice to try something else!! Thanks for the tip in the comments!
Have a GREAT day!
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