Issue #24 - Fall 2006 - Page 8 - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

CanadianScroller · 07-25-2006, 07:00 PM

My public apology about that error.
I must have read the directions 50 times before I sent them in.
There were no spelling mistakes

. But yes the first part of the puzzle needs to be removed before cutting the second cut.
There are revised instructions available on my home page and they will be posted on the SSWC site too.

Sorry for any inconveniences I have caused to both the readers and the staff of SSWC.

Carl

BobD · 07-25-2006, 07:03 PM

In fact, here is the revised instructions here...

And there will be no public scouraging for you, Carl! You are human. As the technical editor, I should have noticed that!!!

Bob

Gill · 07-25-2006, 07:15 PM

It must be nice to have confirmation that someone's actually cutting your pattern, Carl

.

You've produced loads of perfect patterns in the past - I'm sure nobody will hold this one little 'oops' against you.

Draken - thanks for mentioning it. Fore warned is fore armed, as they say.

Gill

Paul S WI · 07-26-2006, 02:50 AM

Hey stuff happens. And as I always say it is only a mistake if it is not corrected.

Paul

draken · 07-26-2006, 04:27 PM

Tried again to make the Jonah and the Whale, using the revised directions, and it came out much better this time.

Only issue now is the pieces only come apart and go together one way. I've squared my table using the saw kerf method, so I'm wondering if I'm pushing laterally on the wood and blade or if my insert is giving a bit. It did look to be flexing a bit as I was holding down the wood to keep it from bouncing.

Cheers,
James (aka Draken)

BobD · 07-26-2006, 04:28 PM

It can be either of those things...sorry I can't offer more advice other than just let the blade cut at it's own speed...

Bob

CanadianScroller · 07-27-2006, 05:30 AM

Excessive pressure will cause the blade to bow and the cut will not be square.

I say this all the time but a new blade cutting at glacier speed.

PiALaModem · 07-27-2006, 12:54 PM

I find it helps if you frequently release forward pressure on the piece and watch what the blade does. Push a little into the line, then ease back and let the blade straighten itself out. At first, do it just about every two seconds. You'll probably see a lot of correction each time you ease back, especially when you're cutting on a curve. Eventually, you will get used to the feeling of pushing the work straight into the blade -- even when turning -- and the corrections will diminish to the vanishing point.

The bottom line, as Carl points out, is you really have to be patient.

Gill · 07-27-2006, 01:51 PM

I'm sure we've all been to shows and seen exhibitions where scrollers whip through wood at breakneck speed. That's fine for flashy demonstrations or if you need to produce lots of items for retail, but there are many projects where it's vital to cut more slowly.

I'm pleased we're having this conversation because it serves to underline the point. I often find my own saw set to less than 60 strokes per minute and rely more on the feel that travels through the workpiece as it's being cut rather than my eyesight. That might sound strange to some people, but your eyes will only tell you if the blade is aligned with the pattern on top of the workpiece as it is fed through; feeling the vibrations through the workpiece will tell you how the cut is proceeding inside the workpiece.

Gill

Forester21 · 07-30-2006, 06:29 PM

I do (did?) most of my cutting sitting down resting my arms on the saw table - until I started cutting 2" wood. I found my cuts weren't 90 degrees, even after checking the blade numerous times. Turns out part of my problem was that by resting my arms on the table, I would lean on one arm while cutting - and that was enough to tip the table top just a bit. Now, when I need exact cuts, I stand up.
T