Gluing Question

[oops99]

I was wondering if anyone here can give me an answer to this, I want to laminate some pieces of different woods together, light and dark which would require bending some thin strips of wood (indicated by red line), I know that soaking or steaming makes the wood pliable and easier to bend, but when it comes to glue up, is there a longer period of drying time because the wood is damp?




Thanks, Tom

[sgimbel]

Tom, Are you cutting he wood as in the design or are you planning on trying to bend the wood into shape. I would cut and fit the pieces, I'd use gorilla glue, but I know many that don't like it, and then some clamps over night. Clean it up, plane or sand it and your ready to go.

[will8989]

Did you ever watch David Marks on DIY? He does lots of stuff and some of it is glue up in curves like yours. He makes a frame, 2 pieces, the thickness and desired shape. He then puts glue on all the pieces, and places the stack in the frame, whatever it is. He then puts the frame back together, clamps it and lets it set over night. Make sense or is it clear as mud? In other words, take some wood and cut it exactly as the finished shape & use as a fram.

Betty

[oops99]

What I am trying to do for starters is cut a single piece of wood on a band saw, and then put a slice of different colored wood into it. The slice would just be a piece ripped thin and then sandwiched in between the original piece that I cut. I hope this makes sense.

Tom

[jigsue]

Hi

We have bent thin stuff using a former of nails tapped along the line and pushing the thin pieces of wood into shape along the nail line, then place another line of nails along the "back" of the laminated pieces Gorilla glue is waterproof, but messy, because it foams. PVA will stick it adequately, providing you clamp it well. Clamping is the key. Even if you steam it, a former will assist in keeping the shape, just make sure it is well clamped.

Sue

Sue

[JohnB]

G'day Tom,
I think Sue is on the right track.
I haven't done any form work since my apprenticeship and then we had all the gear, a vacuum press, formaldehyde glue etc.
What we did was make up a female and male mould, we were forming serpentine drawer fronts.

Looking at what you are trying to do, this is how I'd have a shot at it.

The piece that you cut down centre, could be your male and female mould.

I'd sit them in a couple of sash clamps, wrap them in plastic first, and place your strip between the two.
Give you strip a good wetting first.

Then slowly start winding in the clamps. When (if ) it all comes together, leave it for a couple of days so that the centre strip dries. It should then retain most of the shape when you release the clamps. Remove the plastic from the outside pieces, give all edges a good coating of PVA and re-clamp until glue dries.

According to Hoyle all should be OK, If it's not contact my brief.

[Rolf]

The guys in our clun that do custom furniture vacuum bag the project for clamping.
It is the best way to get uniform pressure on such a variable surface.
Our next main club meeting April 2 will have presentations on this sublect, feel free to join us.
I am not sure what glue they use. But I can find out.

[Jim Finn]

I have glued up oak strips like this: Soak wood overnight, wipe excess water off, apply regular yellow wood glue, clamp in place and leave it there untill the wood is dry.( two days)

[Neal Moore]

All good advice but just remember that the strip to be laminated inside must be quite a bit longer than the outside pieces due to "take-up" of the radius when clamped tight.

[Barefoot1]

I would wait until the wood is dry or use Gorilla Glue, which requires moisture to work properly.