does any one know of liquid glass?

[minowevie]

Hi all. does any one know of anything to do with liquid glass. I am making some Xmas ornaments. and would like to fill in the frets with something that would look like glass. I seen a articale one time . made buy a scroller. that did a fretwork , then filled the frets with something. looked like stained glass. but was not. can any one tell me what that was. I have looked in the stained glass section, of michales. and Joanns. but they don't know what the heck I am talking about. I do know it availabale. but just dont' know what it is called. thanks. your friend Evie

[JohnB]

http://www.everyday.com.au/kolor.shtml
http://distributionbizwiz.wordpress....-with-acyrlic/
http://www.plaidonline.com/apGG.asp
http://www.misterart.com/store/view/...ndow-Color.htm

G'day Evie,
These sites may help you

All the best to you and yours

[Greenfield_Bob]

Evie, I would say don't drink it.
I'm a big help. I never heard of it.

Bob

[Pajaro]

John B
I may be wrong, but the products that you are talking about are stains of sorts. That are put on regular glass to make it look like stained glass. I don't think I have ever seen liquid glass. I think what Evie needs is a liquid that coagulate into a solid. There must be something out there. Let me look around a bit. But I do like the products that everyday.com offers.

[minowevie]

Thanks eveyone. I found what I was looking for today. AT Micahles. your friend Evie

[guitarman]

Evie, let us know how it works out for you. I think I might be interested in that myself. David

[workin for wood]

The micheals product that you purchase will yellow over time and become really gross, just so you are aware. I know the product, my wife used to use it.

Bar top epoxy made by system 3 is a far superior product. I use it as a finish on my high end pens. It does not yellow and it is very hard when it cures. Place a piece of wax paper under your ornament and then a piece of scrap flat wood under that. Clamp it all to your scroll saw. Mix the epoxy as per instructions 2 parts epoxy to 1 part hardener. Do not use more hardener because it does the opposite of what you think. Less is more. More hardener will make it not be hard! Once you fill your holes with your mix, turn on the saw and let it run about 20 min. The light vibrations will push out any bubbles.

Make sure it's clamped nice and tight so epoxy doesn't flow under the ornament. Takes 6 hrs just to set, so make a little table over the ornament. Couple rises of wood and a piece of plywood over the top so that no dust settles into your epoxy. Let it dry at least 2 days. Sand everything flat and even with 150 grit, your epoxy will look like crap now. Up the grit 220. Check and be sure you didn't melt any epoxy while sanding, if so, hand sand 220 to get out the melt lines. Wet sand now, 320, then 400, then 600...now it's really clearing up like glass. Keep going higher if you can in your sanding grits. If you are happy with 600, that's fine. Clean everything up and let it dry 24hrs because some water is now in your wood from wet sanding. Now apply your clear coat polyurethane to your wood. It's alot of work. It will be ok to just spray your piece, the spray over the epoxy won't matter at this stage.

The cost on a small kit of system 3 bartop finish is about $30 and it's a pretty good quantity.

[minowevie]

Jeff, that sound pretty good, I would hate for my ornament to yellow. but it is pretty small. I don't think i could sand the small frets but I sure appreciate the impho. that will be nice to know on a bigger project. One Quistion, this stuff wont catch the wood on fire??must not if you have used it. also. can you put color in it?
Thanks again, your friend Evie

[JohnB]

G'day Evie,
Glad you found what you are after,
I noticed that you asked some questions in the previous thread. I'll dredge the depths of my mind and see if I can come up with some answers.

You don't need the black liquid lead.

Here are the steps as I remember.

Use a sheet of plastic Eg. Overhead projector film, Something fairly firm. Perhaps a plastic laminating sheet.

Place the fret work on the plastic and fill the gaps with the paint, as your looking at a depth of 3mm or more it may take a couple of days to dry.

My only concern would be the possibility of the paint seeping under the timber.
When you actually use the stuff to make window clings the black edging acts like a dam.

I think I'd put a gentle pressure on the work as I'm filling

[workin for wood]

No, it won't catch on fire. Yes you can color it. Yes you will be able to sand it. It's not like you are spot sanding each tiny filled peice, you are sanding the entire piece either by hand or with a random orbit sander and a water bottle with a squirt cap that you squirt drops of water on the piece as you sand. Of course, if you are coloring the epoxy, there's no point in even using epoxy. You are better to use liquid inlace available at woodturnerscatalogue.com. Liquid inlace can be purchased pre mixed or you can buy it in clear and add the color packs which come in many colors including crushed stones such as turquois which is pretty darn cool. You can thin the mix to get into tighter spots by adding acetone. The stuff has a working time of only 15 minutes, so you have to really boogie. I masking tape the back of the fret, then clamp to scroll saw table as before. Mix the stuff up, pour it in and work it into the holes and cracks. Use an old blade to push down in tight spaces and relieve air pockets. If the wood is thick, the inlace may not go all the way through in the thin cut lines. Wait about 30 minutes, peel tape off back, flip ornament and apply inlace to the back will solve the problem! Use saw to help vibrate inlace into holes. This stuff will not blead into the wood. Colored epoxy may bleed into the wood depending on what you use to color it. This stuff is really simple to use. Scrape off anything on top, sand it down, even just to 220 is fine and apply your finish coat. You can spray whatever onto the inlay. When you spray it say with polyurethane it will shine real nice.

I have alot of experience with liquid inlace now. I've been using it in my next intarsia to fill in music notes. I have been cutting and filling music notes for ever and ever and ever, I swear I've got 50 or more hours and am only 3/4 done with it. Often times wish I never got so darn ambitious!

If you purchase the stuff where I say above...they will put you on their catalogue mailing list. There catalogue is my favorite thing to get in the mail.