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| Off Topic |
05-19-2007, 12:36 AM
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#1 | | Master Scroller
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Eaton Rapids Michigan
Posts: 2,231
| To the bat cave .... There's lots of bat house instructions out there, but they do seem to make the instructions a bit difficult to understand in hopes that you'll buy there book I'm sure. I know some won't understand their instructions, so here is the rundown, nice and easy. One plywood panel, 3/4 thick not pressure treated measures 24 wide and 36 long. The roof is a 30 degree angle, so rip a 30 angle on the top of the plywood. Cut two strips of 1x6 rough cedar <all rough cedar>, about 32 long with a 30 degree angle on the top. rip the two boards to be 3 3/4 wide and then screw to sides of plywood. Run a bead of acrylic caulk down edge of plywood first, then screw it together. Then add a roof that overhangs at least an inch all around. It takes two pieces of cedar for the roof, so rip a slice off each boards edge to get a reasonably flat surface and caulk all around and in between boards then screw together. That's pic 1
Now build the ceiling. It's 3" wide. I tilt the saw table and randomly add some saw kerfs to help the bats hang on it. see pic 2
pic 3, install the ceiling board up close to the roof, just anywhere up near there will do. Drill some holes now in the side of the house at an upwards angle. Do this on both sides to allow some air between roof and ceiling, this stops the box from overheating and of course, it's " code ". <wink>
pic 4 ...this is the bottom strip for the box. It is ripped with a 30 angle on the one edge. It is about 2 1/4 wide...there is a 3/4 to 1 inch space behind the board. The bats climb up the back of the plywood through that gap and into the box, but other animals can't fit in that tight a space. There needs to be at least 6" below that entry for the bats to land on the mesh before climbing up into the house. The bevel that's on that board is so when the bats make their guano, it flows out through the entrance.
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Jeff Powell
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05-19-2007, 12:50 AM
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#2 | | Master Scroller
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Eaton Rapids Michigan
Posts: 2,231
| pic 5 is totally optional. you can make the house a single unit, this divider makes it to be 2 units or you can make it be 3 units. the board is cut to length with a 30 degree cut to go under the entrance board and 3" wide of course. before installing the board, I mounted the pole to the back of the house. It's screwed in with 3" screws. I cut the plastic mesh, not metal that rusts and staple it to the back. Install the divider board. < I cut a bunch of beveled random cuts into the sides of the divider board, don't know it that'll help or what, but can't hurt>
pic 6, install the front. The first board will need a 30 degree bevel on an edge to slide under the roof. I cut all the boards to length at the same time, then I rip a sliver off each edge for a flat gluing surface. Every board is caulked on to the sides and inbetween. The box has to be water tight inside. The very last board on the front will have a 1/4 gap to allow some air to enter the front of the box, but that's the only one, and that's the one closest to the bottom.
Once the front is done, the roof is shingled. I suggest installing the iceshield and then the shingles. Iceshield is "code" here. But really, the iceshield seals it up nice and seals against nails that penetrate against it. You hardly need any, so find a local contractor and hit him up for 2 feet by 12" of extra cutoffs.
The pole needs to be 15-20 foot high minimum. I don't have a pole that huge. I'm going to mount my short pole to a tree stump that is easily 15-20 foot tall all on it's own. How I mount it I don't know, but I'll find a way when my box is ready. The box needs to point south or southeast. I figure this is a 5 hr job total build. I have about 1 1/2 hrs into it so far, but still have to finish the front, the roofing and then mount it to the tree.
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Jeff Powell
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05-19-2007, 01:59 PM
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#3 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 461
| Thanks, Jeff. Your pictures are a great help. I need to go get my supplies for the box, but like you, my major dilemma is going to be the pole. My brother may have one or know where to get one. While I'm talking to him, I'll also inquire about some cement to secure the pole in the ground. I think that will be the toughest part of the project...installing it properly. Thanks again! Let us know if you find any guests in your new house. 
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Mia We are the music makers.
We are the dreamers of dreams. Easy scrollin' with a DW788 |
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05-19-2007, 04:02 PM
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#4 | | Master Scroller
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Eaton Rapids Michigan
Posts: 2,231
| I finished the house with matching roofing to my house. I painted the house black with green spots...home-made camoflauge using Krylon H2O waterbased spraypaint. I didn't paint inside the box, that's not supposed to be done inside should be just natural. The dark colors outside will attract the sun and heat the box for the little bat babies. This was such a nightmare to install, I thought for sure I was going to drop it off the top of the tree which is 15 foot high. I thought the tree was taller, but measured it from up top at 15' which puts the bottom of the house about 16'. There was a sliver sticking up from the branch I bolted it to and it was in the way, so I had to carry the house down and then back up twice. I swear, it was very scary and difficult to do. I have no idea if bats will come or not, or if there is even bats around here. I may need to import some bats? Anyhow, my guess is if it starts to stink and I see yukky black stuff on the top of the tree, then there must be bats inside. Oh, did I mention, that dang tree has a gazillion vines on it and of course they are poison ivy. Luckily for me, I am not affected by poison ivy. I hate cedar too, always have. Pulled many slivers out after this job, but it was fun and I'm interested if there will be any results. Now I have to look up toad houses. That can't be too difficult, I always figured a toad house was just a rotton log in the dirt.
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Jeff Powell
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05-19-2007, 06:02 PM
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#5 | | Newly Customized Moose
Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Truro, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,675
| Interesting project there, Jeff - thanks for posting ...
One thing though - will the bats find that house now it's camouflaged? 
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Ian
Scrolling with a Dewalt 788
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05-19-2007, 06:24 PM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: sunderland. england
Posts: 766
| "I see it, I see it" 
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kevin/pitbull.
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05-19-2007, 10:57 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 461
| I must say, Jeff, you certainly don't waste any time, do you? It looks great and hopefully the bats come.
I can't tell too well from the picture, but it looks like you used 6" boards for the front. Is that correct? I never did make it out to the store today for my supplies and after seeing your picture, I was wondering if boards would work if I made them water tight.
Thanks for telling your horror story about getting it up. I figured it was going to be difficult.
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Mia We are the music makers.
We are the dreamers of dreams. Easy scrollin' with a DW788 |
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05-20-2007, 03:23 AM
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#8 | | Newly Customized Moose
Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Truro, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,675
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Mackem "I see it, I see it"  | ROTFL, Kevin! I reckon you must have bats in your belfry ... 
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Ian
Scrolling with a Dewalt 788
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05-20-2007, 04:31 AM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 151
| This subject caught my interest so I thought I would do a little more reading. Here is a web site that was particularly helpful and links to 3 PDF files that were very educational: Attracting Bats, Bat House Criteria and A Bat House Plan.
Jeff and others might be interested to see that mounting bat houses on or near trees is NOT recommend . |
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05-20-2007, 10:24 PM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Michigan
Posts: 909
| Jeff - if you need any bats for your house you can drive north and get all you want out of my garage!
Theresa E |
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