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| | #1 |
| Laying into Inlay Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lincoln, RI
Posts: 1,075
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Ok, this post will assume that you've got access to issues #34 and #36 of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts magazine. More in-depth basic instructions are there. This will be an overview of a slightly advanced project. (Not really all that hard). I've provided two different sized patterns, one at 2 inches, and one at 3 inches. dogwood 1 fin X1 PS.jpg dogwood pattern fin'.jpg dogwood pattern fin' x2.jpg What you'll need; walnut, aspen, basswood, and butternut at 2 1/2" square, or what ever size your pattern fits. Just be sure to leave enough wood to do some test cuts outside of the pattern. Start by copying the pattern onto tracing paper. Use this to transfer the pattern onto the walnut using carbon or graphite paper, (I pin it down with brads. Map pins will work as well). Don't draw in the detail in the petals yet. Attach the aspen to the bottom, (I use double sided tape, but other methods work). First, reverse inlay the star shape in the center, dropping it down into the aspen. Then use a forward inlay to bring the aspen petals to the surface, (along with the star shaped center). Don't forget the 2 folds in the petals. So far we've done 4 inlays. Remove the aspen from the bottom. Glue everything into place, wipe any squeeze-out off of the surface, and let dry, (3 or 4 hours is good). Sand the back of the piece to make it ready for the next phase. Now replace the tracing, align the design, pin it down, slip in some transfer paper, and draw in the details in the petals. Attach the basswood to the bottom and inlay the details. (Forward inlay). Remove the basswood from the bottom. You may sand the bottom again if needed. Now attach the butternut to the bottom. Use a reverse inlay around the perimeter of the design to drop it down into the butternut. Glue everything up and let dry. Replace the tracing and draw in the edge. Cut the circle, sand until it is smooth. For fridge magnets I don't usually do more than finish with mineral oil, (found at the pharmacy, under laxatives,...yup) Let's make some dust...
__________________ Jim The limits of the imagination are imaginary. No task is too tedious for Art. Rock and Scroll My Website Featherwood Woodcrafts Last edited by JimSawyer; 08-07-2009 at 03:48 AM. Reason: clarity |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Seattle(ish)
Posts: 770
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Hi Jim, Thanks for the tutorial. I'm looking forward to trying this. Is there a reason for doing alternate reverse and forward inlays rather than doing every thing in one direction? --Rob |
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| | #3 |
| Laying into Inlay Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lincoln, RI
Posts: 1,075
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Actually Rob, using reverse inlays saves the extra steps needed to re-attach more stock to the bottom to bring inlays up. It also, in many cases, will keep the continuity of the wood grain and figure throughout the design.
__________________ Jim The limits of the imagination are imaginary. No task is too tedious for Art. Rock and Scroll My Website Featherwood Woodcrafts Last edited by JimSawyer; 08-06-2009 at 10:34 PM. Reason: typo |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Seattle(ish)
Posts: 770
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Thanks Jim, I think that I can envision that. Should make more sense once I work through one. --Rob |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,248
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Hi Jim, I must say that every time I do an inlay project, I pull out the magazine and review the article. This tutorial is also super. |
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| | #6 |
| Laying into Inlay Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lincoln, RI
Posts: 1,075
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I'm bumping this up, cause it was only there for less than a day. I thought I'd like to see if more people are interested.....
__________________ Jim The limits of the imagination are imaginary. No task is too tedious for Art. Rock and Scroll My Website Featherwood Woodcrafts |
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| | #7 |
| Technical Editor |
I made it a sticky, Jim, so it always stays at the top! Thanks so much! This is great! Bob
__________________ www.WoodCarvingIllustrated.com www.FoxChapelPublishing.com www.ScrollSawer.com Shopsmith, Hawk G4 |
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| | #8 |
| Behave Yourself..I can't. |
I'm interested as well Jim..However I'm trying to find the woods required ....I'm not having much luck locally. I'm not able at this time to order specific woods online so I'm doing some research to see if I have some suitable woods for your project...
__________________ The Mike One of them anyway. Don't be so open-minded. Your brains will fall out! |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Jackson, TN
Posts: 226
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Hey Jim, thanks for sharing your method! I've always wanted to do some real inlay projects, but never have made the time. Maybe when I get back home this will give me some motivation to try it!
__________________ Friends call me Matt |
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| | #10 |
| Laying into Inlay Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lincoln, RI
Posts: 1,075
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Mike, If you need to substitute different woods, just be sure that the contrasts will work. Really... anything goes. It is art after all... I've had to make due in the past and have discovered wood combinations that have worked out better than I had planned. Be careful though, a lot of woods will change over time. I love the graph that was in issue #34. It's also available here on the forum, under back issues. It tells you what to expect from a lot of different woods.Matt, An adventure is a wood chip away.... I guarantee that once you try it, you'll be hooked. And the design capabilities are vast... Happy cutting... Thanks Bob, I'm glad you like my little bonus.... ![]() To all, I'm here to answer any questions... Ask away.
__________________ Jim The limits of the imagination are imaginary. No task is too tedious for Art. Rock and Scroll My Website Featherwood Woodcrafts |
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