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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Renfrew On.Canada
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Hi Guys annd Gals I just bought my first 12 1/2" planner. When I use it I am getting snipes on both ends. It does not seem to matter if I make small adjustments or heavy adjustments. It does the same thing on both ends. Only thing that works is two make my measurements and allow for waste on both end which adds up to 4"which means I have alot of scrap. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks JWH |
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| | #2 |
| Moderator CUT IT OUT Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Chilliwack British Columbia, Canada
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Check the height and angle of the in feed and out feed tables. Make sure you have lots of support at the same level as the out feed table.
__________________ CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net." Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21 |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Centerville, Utah
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Carl is right. The infeed and out feed table have to be at the same level as the cutting table. Also, be sure you feed the board straight in, but I am sure you are doing that. Sometimes when I am not careful and put the board in just slightly wrong I will get bad snipe. Even when things are perfect I get some slight snipe. Some planners are worse than others for snipe.
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Glen Burnie, MD
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Here's a little hint. Hubby made a board that completely fits over the entire bed of the planer. He put some sort of stop on the bottom of it to keep it from slidding through when I am planing. Seems to have almost eliminated my problem. If you have no idea what I am talking about, let me know and I'll take a pic of it and post it (hopefully). Or you can check DIY. He got this from the tool show. Betty
__________________ Betty "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jacksonville, FL
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Don't know what kind of planer you have, but if it has a locking head, be sure to lock it before planing. This is the voice of experience. Also, I was given a tip that just as the board is exiting to raise the end of the board a bit. I've done that and virtually no snipe. EarlinJax |
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| | #6 | |
| Senior Member | Quote:
__________________ If This HillBilly Can't Fix it Then it Ain't Broke!!! My Gallery steve03@frontiernet.net | |
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| | #7 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Renfrew On.Canada
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Thanks all I will try what was sugested and get back to you. JWH |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Georgia, USA
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Here's an article that might help...
__________________ Mike ![]() Craftsman 16" VS, Puros Indios and Sam Adams! Scrollin' since Jun/2006 My Gallery http://scrollcrafters.com (reciprocal links welcomed) |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Jersey
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I have had a planer for 10 years now and just account for snipe. I start with a board that is 6-8 inches too long and cut off the extra. I then resaw the waste and use it for small ornaments or other projects where thickness is not all that important. All the above suggestions work to some extent but there has, to my knowledge, never been a planer that is totally snipe free but some brands are better than others. Most planers snipe between 0.001 and 0.004 inches. By the way, you can feel a snipe of only 0.001 inch with your fingertip. This little is easily sanded smooth and unless you are making very high level competition grade cabinetry or furniture should not affect your results. My planer, a 12" delta, snipes about 0.004" so I start with a board that is 6-8 inches too long and cut off the sniped ends. I then resaw the waste and use it for small ornaments or other projects where thickness is not all that important. More annoying, and totally unavoidable,are the planer marks. These are the very faint ripples left on the board as it passes through the planer. Since planers only have two or three blades, there are gaps when the board is moving foward but not being planed. This results in very shallow ripples. You can see them easily by using a bright, raking light source ( one that is at a low angle to the board). These must be sanded , hand planed, or scraped smoothor they will show up big time when you finish the piece. They are often more pronounced on boards from lumber yards or big box stores. Hope this helps a bit.
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| | #10 |
| Masterscroller.com™ Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Eaton Rapids Michigan
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That's the truth on the sacrificial board. That's exactly what I do too. you can't adjust the infeed or outfeed table on my dewalt, so I too have a piece of 3/4 MDF...you tack a little 1x2 under each end flush with the ends of the tables so it can't get pulled through...use johnsons paste wax on the MDF to help wood glide through. It's a pain, but it's also a must to lock the head on the little 12" planers. My dewalt is the same way. If your getting ripples, that means you have one blade out farther than the rest. You need to re-set your planer blades. Jointers do the same thing if the blades aren't exact.
__________________ Jeff Powell |
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