Help With Craftsman 18" repair

[thutchinson]

I have an 18" Craftsman saw and the blade clamp assembly broke. They sent me a new one, however, I can not figure out how in the WORLD to get the pin out that holds the upper clamp assembly so I can attach the new one.

Any ideas? Can't find it on any web sites either.

[GrayBeard Phil]

1st. and most important, Welcome to the Site. I hope you will enjoy your visits here.

Now about your question:

I am unfamiliar with your saw. I do no know exactly what you mean by "pin", so the remainder of this post is just pure guessing on my part. Feel free to ignore this post if it doesn't make any sense to your saw.

Sometimes the blade clamp assembly is attached to an arm by way of a "roll pin" (following Image stolen from McMaster-Carr web site)



This fastener is press fitted into a hole. There is a slight tapper on the ends so when the pin is inserted, the pin is compressed to a smaller diameter (that's why there is a slot along the length) to form a very tight fit. There is no slack in the fitting since the spring in the steel keeps everything tight.

It is important that any roll pin not be hammered out. It must be press fitted out. You need some sort of steel metal pin that applies removal forces just to the wall of the roll pin. NEVER USE A NAIL.

Two important issues, the removal tool must not go inside the roll pin as that will force the pin to expand open, and second, the removal tool must be ever so slightly smaller than the hole size so it won't get stuck in the hole; 1/64 smaller is usually good here. You may need to go to a real hardware store, usually Big Box home improvement stores (BORG) don't have such tools as you need. Think about a long rivet, drill blanks, and so on. Drift pins usually are too long, and are either too wide or too small. You need a tool that is only going to apply forces to the walls of the roll pin.

The following is tricky, and there is no way this medium of communications can convey way I could show you in 10 minutes. But here goes:
-Get a large "C" clamp
-Get a 1/2 inch socket (or larger) from a socket wrench set. Think on this, the socket needs to be deeper than the roll pin is long. But a "deep well socket" will be too big.
-Get your removal tool and place the business end against the roll pin
-The socket goes against the other end of the hole, so as the pin is forced out is has some place to go. The socket transfers the C clamp force from the jaws to the side of the scroll saw arm.
-Using all 3 or 4 hands you have , line up in 3 dimensions the tool, pin & arm, socket and the C clamp opening on the outside this chain.
-Close the C clamp jaws slowly so as to press the roll pin out of the hole, keeping everything aligned in 3-D. This is where all your other hands come in.

As you close the jaws of the C clamp, the C clamp will want to twist and move. This will mar the surface of the arm as the socket will want to twist also. You may have to live with the marks.

Aside: Machine shops have special tools for removing press fitted parts. They have the tools, technology, and training. I am presuming you don't have access to a neighbor who owns a such a tool.

As you can guess, the insertion of the roll pin is done using the C clamp again. And again, it is done slowly, to allow the roll pin to compress as it is inserted.

If this helps at all, I will be surprised.

Phil

PS: Hint to Rick Hutcheson-- If you are looking for a new video topic for your great web site........
Phil

[thutchinson]

I bet you are exactly correct about the pressure fitting pin. My only issue now is that both "ends" of the pin are solid/closed. I can't really visualize the process as you've described it with the C clamps but possibly my partner will "see" it when he reads it on his business trip return...just means I have to wait until he gets back.

I was thinking about trying needle nose pliers and compressing the pin somehow but with it completely solid-looking, it's a bit tricky to know where to apply pressure. I could end up ordering a new pin of top of the part I already have.

UGH !! :>(

[GrayBeard Phil]

Your "pin" could be a solid pin. Sort of like the solid pin on a door hinge. However, a roll pin is cheaper and gets the job done in most cases. I haven't noticed that craftsman power tools went into the more expensive way of making tools without a darn good reason.

You may need to find a parts diagram for your saw to understand what is going on. You may just have some sort of dust cover over the ends of the pins. The parts diagram will show if it is a solid pin or not.

Needle nose pliers won't get the job done. No way to get the jaws of the pliers around the sides of the roll pin so you could compress the roll pin.

Be aware, the procedure I outlined in my previous post if done incorrectly could (I repeat COULD) result in damage to your saw's arm. Any bending, twisting, or deforming of the saw's arm will alter the alignment of the upper and lower blade chucks. Mis-alignment of the two blade chucks will make your saw unusable. Please take care, and be sure who ever performs the chuck replacement is a knowledgeable tool user.

Phil

[Ramjet]

I have an older 20" craftsman which has the roller pin holding the blade attachment and the arm . If I were to try and remove it I would probably try this . Tape a small flat nut on the side your going to push towards just slightly bigger than the pin diameter . Cut a bolt just a tad smaller than the pin down to about 1/4"Long . With a C clamp push the bolt to the pin . Once the bolt has started to move the pin check to see if it has gone into the nut . If so change the nut size and again push till bolt has bottomed out . Change bolt length and follow the same proceedure . You may have to change the nut for a small length of pipe or socket . When you get it out far enough try using a vise grip to lightly twist the pin out . Give the pin a shot of WD to lubricate it .
Putting the pin back . The C clamp itself may do the job . Make sure the pin stays straight and make sure the 2 parts holes line up .I would also use some lubrication . Looks like you could use a small C clamp as the pin is only 1/2" long on my saw .I just thought of something . Is the metal between the support arm gone . If so you will need to fill the void ,so when pressing the pin out it doesn't squeeze and break the flange . . May not be the same thing .LOL .
Roger

[will8989]

Craftsman scrollsaws also make great boat anchors!

Betty