Sanding Shims

[Lou]

I was cutting out a JGR apple with worm magnet for my niece to make for her teacher tomorrow (I cut it, she paints it), and it occurred to me to click a few pics while I was doing the sanding shim thing as there have been a few questions about that. This is a very simple project, but has a bit of shaping to it. This one is going to be painted so it's cut from 3/8" plywood, but normally I use bloodwood or cherry. But the method is just the same.

I use a sanding shim for the apple part only so it will be a nice uniform shape. In this case I wouldn't glue the pieces first because after the initial shaping, I want to then sand definition between the sections of the apple. This shim is not used as a raising shim, but I do save it and use it every time I make an apple/worm. The only raising shim I use is on the worm, which I just raise 1/8 inch, so I cut and glue that on the worm before doing any shaping.

The black in the first photo is the double-sided carpet tape I use to attach the apple to the shim (which is 1/4" MDF). Once it's stuck down, I then sand it with my pneumatic drum sander (first the coarse, then the fine). When I'm happy, I then remove the pieces from the shim and sand the inside edges a bit for definition.

Hope the pics will be of some help. Actually, this would be a great choice for a newbie. Much easier than either the frog or nuthatch but still fun!

Lou

[jim_mex]

Great post Lou! - excellent photos and explication. Now if we could just persuade an intarsia moderator to open up a new Sticky subsection called 'Intarsia and Segmentation Techniques' this would be a great place to post this thread

Keep these gems coming!

[Lou]

Jim, you're quick! And thanks! I sort of figured I might as well keep clicking away, so I did.

First I glued the worm to a 1/8 shim (I could also have simply cut it from thicker stock). Then I marked with a pencil where the worm meets the apple. I'll sand right to the line on the bottom, but not the top because I want the worm to look like he's coming out and his lower half is still embedded in the apple. (Of course I do. That's what he's doing.) The next pic shows the entire piece including the leaf and stem which have a little basic shaping. I've marked my backer (1/8 plywood) and will drill the hole for the rare-earth magnet before I cut it out. Then I round the edge of the backing a bit and it's all ready to attach after my niece does her painting.

This apple is a great project because it can be made large enough to hang on the wall or small enough to be a tree ornament. Thicker stock would allow for more shaping, but thin works better for magnets. And you can paint it, stain it, or go natural. All choices make a super looking apple. I have one made from yellowheart which is, of course, a golden delicious, my favourite.

Lou

[Wood Dog]

Thanks Lou that was helpful.....I'm starting to get this sanding shim thing.

[sawdustus]

Lou, a sanding shim is a great idea. Although I have never tried intarsia a sanding shim seems like it would save your finger tips from a lot of wear and make it easier to hold small pieces. I wonder how hard it is to remove the shim after you are finished? The double sided tape I tried for stack cutting broke all the pieces when I tried to separate them. Just a thought; would a small dab of hot glue work as well and be easier to remove?

george

[jim_mex]

Hi George - I always remove the double sided tape from tricky pieces by trickling a bit of thinner between the cut piece and the backer - it flies off. I then use a soft lint free rag soaked with some thinner to wipe any residue remaining off of the cut piece

[Sandy Oaks]

Hi Lou,

A great post and pictures. Your explanations are so helpful. Now I am making your Robin Magnet out of 3/8" stock. How much shaping on such thin wood?

[Mike Crosa]

Great photos and explanation. Thanks. It is a lot clearer in my head now.

[dragyn]

As Jim said, another gem with amazing clarity of an intarsia technique! Thanks much for everything you do Lou! *Hug*

[Lou]

Double-sided tapes vary a great deal in strength! It took me awhile to find one that would actually hold the pieces down well enough. I've never had much difficulty removing them. I just slide something thin (usually the end of a small screwdriver) underneath any pieces that are stubborn about coming off. You do need to do that with care, though, so as not to leave a mark on the wood, especially if using softwood. I've never tried hot glue, so I can't comment, but it sounds fine, as does Jim's solvent suggestion.

Most of Judy Gale Roberts' books have a lot of information about using sanding shims. That's where I got it! I use a lot of shims as I find them so helpful in good shaping. I actually have a box full of them! I'll click a pic sometime.

Lou