Veining Tutorial

[Chase]

Veining Tutorial

First, much of the credit for this tutorial goes to my scrolling pal Tom Sevy out in Utah. Most of you should know Tom. Although he isn’t as good-looking as me, he is a great author and scroller. Tom is a frequent contributor to SSWC magazine in his scrolling of Volker Arnolds’s (va-holzkunst) (check w/Rolf for a translation of the stuff in this site) patterns. In fact Tom is the stateside distributor of Arnold’s patterns. If you are interested, PM me for his e-mail address.

Veining isn’t that difficult. I have provided several examples cleverly titled 1, 2, 3, etc. plus an example used in an actual project.

The way to do it is to start in the middle of the vein, not the corner. I use a drill press, but you can hand drill also.

Drill Press.jpg

This way the spiral blade and a little sanding will eliminate the start hole.

First decide how wide you want the vein. I have provided examples of veins cut with various blade sizes; 2/0 to a #10 spiral blade.

Vein Exp 1.jpg Vein Exp 2.JPG

You will notice with the wider blades, the corners are a little rough. Example 4a is done using a 2/0 spiral and 4 with a #10 spiral. Notice the difference. Example 4b is a vein using the conventional method with the start hole at a corner. The circles indicate where the start holes were drilled.

After deciding the blade to use, drill the start hole with the smallest bit that will allow the spiral blade to be inserted. If you are using Flying Dutchmen blades, Mike’s catalog will give you the correct size. Each example has the blade and drill bit size to be used for each blade. I’ve indicted the blade and bit size on the pics.

Next select a flat blade that will go into the pilot hole. It must be smaller than the spiral you are going to use for the vein. Cut the pilot vein line with the flat blade.

It should be noted the RT and RB blades are no longer available from Mike. My personal favorite is the RB (round blade) that is a wire with burrs. Really great blade and easy to control. Maybe if enough of us bug Mike, he’ll find some more. The RT (round twister) is also a great blade. Better than the new spirals. Again, bug Mike to get these back in his catalog.

#1 — FD-RB #1, #63 bit.
#2 — FD-NS 2/0, #67 bit.
#3 — FD-RT #3 #59 bit.
#4 — FD-Spiral #10, 1/16 bit.
#4a — FD-PS 2/0, #67 bit. The short saw line is the pilot vein.
#4b — FD-UR #3 Provided to show how the star looks cut using conventional veining techniques and the start hole in a corner.
#5 — FD_NS #5, #55 bit.
#6 — FD Spiral #10, 1/16 bit (free hand).

The veins in the nativity light example (Volker Arnold pattern)

Vein Exp 3.jpg

are done free hand with the FD-RB blade. (Notice how the pattern maker worked his initials in the project.) Again, contact me for Sevy’s e-mail if you want to get in touch with Tom to buy the Arnold pattern CDs.

The next step is to change the blade to the spiral blade you decided to use.

This is the tricky part. Saw along the existing line of the flat blade cut. Move the piece gently allowing the blade to follow the existing line. Use some blade speed here. On my 788 I use a speed of 4 ½ or 5. I’d practice on some scrap to see how the blade will follow the line.

Next, with a strip of sandpaper (I like the fabric backed 150 sandpaper, but any will do),

Sanding .jpg

sand the pilot hold even with the rest of the vein.

Hope this helps and gets you scrollers, who are interested, to start practicing on veining. It can be very decorative touch for your projects, particularly those with lights. I have a series of vein plans on sticky paper. Just peel and stick where you want them. If you look at my album (go to my web page….. (ScrollArt by Chase)
….. and click on the album link and you can see how veins are used to enhance my schwibbogens. Nativity IV uses a lot of veining.

Submitted by Chase

[Rolf]

I still have some of the "Round " blades, they are currently locked in my safe! Chase, thanks for reminding me that I have them.
The RT blade? I don't remmember that one. The "NEW" spirals are not bad and you say the RT's are better.
My understanding is that the technology and tooling for making the Round blades was destroyed after production stopped?
Maybe Mike can refresh my memory.

As far as translation goes we have new scroller in midst that lives in Germany and I would venture to say her German is significantly better than mine at this point.

[jigsue]

Chase

There is some great stuff on your site. Thanks for pointing me to it! I plan on making schwiboggan this year. Our eldest son lives in Munich and they remind me of the Christmas markets and the gluwein. Walking in the snow and drinking the stuff can have you warm as a newt by 10am!!!

Sue

[minowevie]

Chase that was great. and just how I do it. I went to look at your album. and there is some nice stuff there. you are a master at this for sure. thanks so much for this empho. we all need this in are scrolling. I got in on the last bit of the spirales you are talking about, and dang I would have loved to try them for sure. no more untwisting, and that kind of crap. so iwill say this
Mike, get them back. some how some day, and sooon.

I would have loved to try them, why did they stop making them, seemed like a great blade.
your friend Evie

[JohnB]

G'day Chase,
Great tutorial mate.
Those round blades sound exactly what I imagined scrollers used, prior to getting my own saw.

I think that idea came from tech. when they taught us how the fretwork on the old furniture was done. A bandsaw (Hand powered) and a thin wire blade.