Sanding circles and arcs

[Bruce P]

Having gotten past the cutting part (see previous post), the next challenge was sanding the curved fretwork. Convex curves and straight lines worked well with 1/4" x 5" strips of emory cloth clamped in the blade holders; for concave curves, not so good, as the vertical edges of the emory cloth were cutting into the wood.

Solution: Above and below the contact zone between wood and emory cloth, wrap the emory cloth with thin strips of tape so that the 1/4" dimension of the emory cloth is deformed into an arc or "C" shape (abrasive side facing out). When clamped into the saw, the emory cloth is distorded by the wrapped tape into a curved (partially cylindrical) surface which does a neat job on the concave surfaces of delicate fretwork.

Maybe "coal to Newcastle", but perhaps be useful to some.
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Bruce P.

[oops99]

Hey Bruce,
What kind of wood and blades are you using? The reason I ask is because I never have to sand anything I cut when using a reverse tooth blade, except for maybe some fuzzies once in awhile. Even then I have found that in most cases you can burn them off with a small torch.

oops99

[Brandy]

What make blades are you using Tom? I use reverse tooth but still have to sand some...

[CanadianScroller]

I am with Tom I do not sand very much at all. In fact sometimes the saw gives a finish that is so shiny I could never sand it that smooth.
It does depend on what material I am cutting though.

I do like Bruces tip on the sandpaper and I can see where it would be a real benefit.

If you do have some issues with feathering you can tape tagboard ( the cardboard from cereal boxes and the back of notepads) to the bottom of the work before you cut.
It supports the wood and elliminates feathering.

[JohnB]

G'day Bruce,
Like Tom I never sand any inside cuts. The blades tend to leave a better finish then even 240g paper.
I use either FD or Olsan

[Bruce P]

Thanks everyone for your input. It appears that my initial challenge is fortunately not a widespread problem and is likely the consequence of blade choice, wood type and operator experience level; all solvable problems.

Thanks,

Bruce P.

[stevebuk]

Originally Posted by oops99

Even then I have found that in most cases you can burn them off with a small torch.

oops99

i have tried to burn off the fuzzies using a small torch, but alas it did nothing at all, oh well maybe the bulb isn't strong enough..

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by stevebuk

i have tried to burn off the fuzzies using a small torch, but alas it did nothing at all, oh well maybe the bulb isn't strong enough..

That, Steve, is just a reminder why I shouldn't read this forum with a mouth full of coffee
ROFLMAO

[oops99]

Thanks John,

I just had a mouthful of M&M's, and when I saw your reply to Steve I shot the cat.

oops99

[JohnB]

G'day Tom,
All I can say is that I'm glad I'd finished my coffee before reading your post.
I had to walk away LOL