Need help on recessing

[millwab]

Scrollers,
Help me out here. I've not tried stack cutting at an angle yet, but I like the idea of this technique for an inlay. However, I would think that the bottom of the top piece and the top of the bottom piece would have the same dimension. How does it "fall" into the space? The only difference I can tell would be the thickness of the blade. If I'm understanding this correctly, the difference between the outside of the blade exiting the top of the top piece and the inside of the blade exiting the bottom of the bottom piece (angle) can't exceed the thickness of the blade (or at lease it's kerf). That's not a whole lot to work with. Am I missing something, or just in awe of those that can eye that small of an angle?

Bruce

[Neal Moore]

Rather than try to explain, just do this: Take a couple pieces of 1/4 inch scrap and stack them. Set your table at about 2 1/2 degrees and cut a circle from the center of the scrap. Note how far the top circle fits into the hole of the bottom circle. Then do the same thing with 1/2 inch stock. It should all make sense then. Depending on which direction you cut (clockwise or counter clockwise) the circle you cut will either lift up into the top piece or drop into the bottom piece.

[Capt Weasel]

Would my initial set-up idea work for getting started and both pieces aligned? The tracing outline, 4 corner pilot holes, saw to exact edge of both, attach (stack) 2 pieces together then cut.
After I get them attached I take it that all I do then is cut on a 2-3 degree angle and go 1 way only whether it is CW or CCW. I just noticed Neal say that cutting 1 way will lift my inlay piece up above the bottom and another will drop it down. Which way is which? I didn't know that or think of it. Angles and geometry ain't my forte.
I'm getting the idea slowly but surely. Just bear with me please.

[jttheclockman]

Capt.

Not following your intent at all sorry. If you tilt the table to the left and scroll the piece counterclockwise it will push up to tighten as shown with my magazine rack. As Neil said take some scrap and try it. First tilt table to the left and cut a circle counterclockwise and then leave table and cut clockwise and see the difference and now match to what you are after. The idea of drilling 4 hole does not make sense. You only need one starter hole.If I had more time I would take some photos for you but I have a show this weekend and next and I am a little busy. If you are still having problems Iwill try next week for you.

[Capt Weasel]

The idea of the 4 holes is to get the top piece aligned and centered on top of the bottom. And by scrolling out the predrawn line on the bottom piece and into the pattern line on the top I thought I might would then be able stack the 2 together, slid blade up through the bottom piece right on line, through top piece right on line the cut both. This way I though I might be able to avoid drilling pilot holes into both that will either show or I'll have to do some fixing up so they wouldn't be seen. The 4 holes are a seperate idea and question from the "how to get it to fit" question. I should have stated them clearer. Reading back over the post I can see the confusion I guess.

[PiALaModem]

I get the four holes thing, I think. You're sticking your inlay pattern on the upper piece, and you want it to line up with some work you've already done on the lower piece, is that correct? Next time you'll do the inlay first, and work around it!

As to pilot holes: if your design allows it, try to have some open space (a place where you're going to cut all the way through to the background) along the edge of theinlaid part. That brings the inlay and main layer together aesthetically and gives you an area of waste in which to start the cut. That way, you cut out your pilot hole and throw it away.