Questions for the Experts - Page 4 - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

cartejt · 02-28-2008, 12:22 AM

I am looking for a decent scroll saw for woodworking that meets the standard criteria (decent capacity, wide selection of speeds, easy blade changing, multiple blade types etc.) but will not cost me a mortgage payment (if possible). I looked at the DeWalt DW788 (around $500) but read differing reviews, read about the Hawk G4 from RBI Hawk tools ($1199 - on the high side for me), and also looked at the Excalibur EX-21 from Seyco.

The old saw I had was from Sears and the vibration was enough to drive me batty. Obviously, I am looking for considerable improvement.

Do you have any suggestions and or places I might go (online or otherwise) to look?

Thank you!

munkytows · 02-28-2008, 03:03 AM

Can anyone help me with this VERY irritating problem? At first I sprayed the wood and the pattern with Easy Tack, the pattern kept flipping up. Then I tried Elmers Adhesive Spray, it stays better, BUT the pattern still kept flipping up. (When it'd flip I'd tape it down the best I could, still didn't do well). I researched how everyone here does it and tried the packing tape, along with the Elmers. I was working on the actual project, not practice pieces. I was doing the white area on a Wood Duck head and it goes all curvy. I managed to stay on the line until the last inch then the pattern flipped up! I was so mad, do I have to trace it on the wood? I read that people put painters tape on first but then I can't see the grain I want for the pieces I'm using. I let the pattern sit for over 2 hours before I tried cutting it. I did try to do my own research, now I'm just frustrated.
I'd really appreciate it if someone could tell me what I'm doing wrong and how to correct it. This is my first attempt on a project, I'm trying to do a Scarlet Tanager later, the duck pattern is for beginners so I thought I'd try it.

munkytows

lucky788scroller · 02-28-2008, 04:19 AM

Im not an expert, but this method works flawlessly for me. Apply clear packing tape on the wood.Spray the backside of your pattern with 3M spray adhesive (shake can well), and stick it to your taped surface and your good to go. Thats all I do, havent had any issues. Dale

JohnB · 02-28-2008, 04:25 AM

I think it's something to do with "Wood Ducks" LOL

munkytows · 02-28-2008, 01:30 PM

Hi Dale,
Thanks very much for your suggestion, I will try it later on today!
munkytows

Magpie · 02-28-2008, 01:59 PM

Sometimes when those nasty corners flip up, I use an Elmer's Gluestick to tack it back down. It's pretty safe and washable, won't hurt your wood, and easy

munkytows · 03-03-2008, 12:45 AM

Hi Dale,
I tried your method and it WORKED

. I am so happy I finished my very first project. I just made a couple of maple leaf candle holders that were in my Scroll Saw for Beginners book, and not a problem with any of the pieces. Now I can work on my ducks!!!!!
Thanks so much for responding to my question!
munkytows

R.Edwards · 03-03-2008, 02:53 AM

The trick with the spray adhesive is use a lot! When you think youv'e coated the back of the pattern well, spray on MORE!. Then with Elmer's, put the pattern to the wood quickly. With some other brands you let it dry a little. With Elmer's I've found it works best, as the label says, if you stick it on within about 20 seconds. I don't like to apply packing tape directly to the wood first because it is much more dificult to remove from fretwork than the spray glue and pattern. Spray glue and pattern can easily be lifted off after a minute or so moistening with mineral spirits. Not so with the packing tape. If it stays on the wood a few days, the tape leaves a very sticky glue residue that doesn't come off easily. I put packing tape OVER the pattern after pattern is spray glued on. This tape is supposed to lubricates the blade.
Ralph

shanklessaw · 03-15-2008, 12:56 AM

If the glue and temperature isn't high enough, the glue will not work. In cold weather, I warm the can before applying it. I try to have the wood surface "warm" also. Government specifications requires that the temperature be above 40 degrees before painting. For glue it should be higher than that.

Buzz · 03-15-2008, 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R.Edwards

The trick with the spray adhesive is use a lot! When you think youv'e coated the back of the pattern well, spray on MORE!. Then with Elmer's, put the pattern to the wood quickly. With some other brands you let it dry a little. With Elmer's I've found it works best, as the label says, if you stick it on within about 20 seconds. I don't like to apply packing tape directly to the wood first because it is much more dificult to remove from fretwork than the spray glue and pattern. Spray glue and pattern can easily be lifted off after a minute or so moistening with mineral spirits. Not so with the packing tape. If it stays on the wood a few days, the tape leaves a very sticky glue residue that doesn't come off easily. I put packing tape OVER the pattern after pattern is spray glued on. This tape is supposed to lubricates the blade.
Ralph

I agree with everything Ralph wrote. I use 3M Spray Mount Artist's Adhesive. I'll spray the pattern with mineral spirits and by the time I walk 5' to the garbage can, the pattern is almost falling off by itself. I do use tape, either packing or scotch tape, on the pattern, but that is more to hold pieces in to keep from breaking off the small narrow parts of the work. I've been doing a lot of that on the '37 Chevy by Zaffino and still broke off a small part. I modified my auxiliary top and that seems to help.