Pattern removal tips?

[m_r_dxn]

I was peeling the pattern off a finished project this morning and was thinking (dangerous, I know!). Like a lot of people, I sand the wood down smooth BEFORE putting the pattern on, then I use a spray on craft glue (craftbond) for applying my patterns, then coat with clear box tape. Works great for me. BUT, where I run into problems is when I take the pattern off. It always leaves annoying glue residue on the wood. I sometimes use a heatgun (depending on how stuck the pattern is) but either way the glue is still there when I get the pattern off. I have a wood residue cleaner that I use for it (Formby's) that does get it off (squirt it on a cloth and wipe), but on small fretwork, I have even broken fragile pieces trying to get the glue off like this. I've tried using a layer of masking tape underneath the pattern, which keeps the glue off the wood, but I had problems with it lifting fuzzies into the surface, which have to be sanded off, defeating the purpose of pre-sanding. Is this something all yall deal with too, or do yall have a trick to get around this?

[pat c]

I never use packaging tape anymore, static always causes the dust to find it's way under the tape so I can't see the pattern line. On simple patterns I just glue the pattern down to the wood and use low odor mineral spirits on paper towel to coat the pattern for a minute or two. Releases the pattern and most of the glue, another swipe with the paper towel takes the rest of the glue off.
On more complicated patterns I use blue painters tape on the wood first, then adhere the pattern on top of that. Takes some time with and Exacto knife to get the tape off but there is no glue residue left and the painters tape seems to lubricate the blades well enough. Pat

[wood-n-things]

I agree with most of what Pat says..I don't use the blue painters tape directly on the wood though i apply the pattern directly to the wood and then cover with clear packing tape and use MS to release the glue.

[scrollpup]

Like the new avatar Matt! I use the blue tape,adhere the pattern then put the clear tape on top (being careful not to over lap the clear tape so the dust doesn't get trapped). I'll have to give Mikes way a shot though, as it does take a bit to get the blue tape off.....

Jerry

[sawdustus]

I also use blue painter tape directly on the wood after it has been sanded to it final smoothness. The glue goes on the back of the pattern and the pattern goes on the tape. I vary as to my use of the clear packing tape. Sometimes do, sometimes don't. Doesn't seem to matter except when cutting plywood or very thick wood for puzzles when the blades last a bit longer. The blue tape peels off easily enough and when I use my sanding mop or a light 320 grit sanding to round over the edges it takes care of any tape glue that is left.
If you still want to glue the pattern directly to the wood, after you have finished cutting and removed the clear tape, follow Pat's directions for getting the paper off.

george

[ncsealeveler]

I also use blue tape then spray glue the pattern.Some woods need packing tape and some don't.Tony

[bubbantenn]

I adhere directly to the wood using Elmers temporary bond spray adhesive. I seldom have trouble with the paper pattern releasing from the wood. If I do, I use mineral spirits like the others have suggested, using a lint free cloth and wiping it on, waiting a few minutes, then lifting the pattern off.
One thing I didn't see addressed is your trouble with fragile fret work breaking when sanding or wiping on mineral spirits. My answer to this is, save the piece you cut the project from until you are completely finished. Slip the project back into the waste piece, which act as a protector for those fragile areas of your work. I usually use packing tape on the back to hold it in place while I am working on it, then remove when finished. That way there is no glue residue on the front. While this works only for working on the flat front of the project and does nothing for inside delicate cuts,I have found it to be very useful. I have even used the waste pieces to re-insert the project and add lettering as an afterthought and have never had a breakage.

Bubba

[cya1291]

Ok of what I read so far sound great. I add a question to this. What about flipping the pattern you are cutting ? Meaning make it bachwards then glue it as usual when done flip the wood and walaa the actuall design would be on the underside of the piece being cut. No pattern to remove. Would this work? Just a thought.

[m_r_dxn]

Thanks for the replies. Like I said, though in my original, I tried the masking tape trick (painters tape) and that gave me the trouble with the lifting the grain when I peeled it off. I didn't have any glue on the wood, but I had to sand fuzzies off of the delicate finished project.....

I don't remember what kind of wood I used it on though. Maybe I should go back and give that one another chance.

[scotti158]

I will use the painters tape and glue the pattern on top. If I have trouble removing the pattern and tape, I'll carefully use my stationary belt sander to remove any remnants. If it is a project with a lot of delicate details, I'll use sandpaper glued to a large flat surface such as a table saw, piece of MDF, etc. and sand it that way.