Brand new 788 Table Advice sought

[azbison]

Folks,

I just got my new 788 and have it unpacked and on the stand. It looks so good there, makes my heart warm just looking at it....

But

It's meant to be used not adored. The table is more rough than my old table and I'm wondering if you would suggest waxing it, hitting it with a sander first then waxing it, or some other treatment. Or give it some use and see what I think first.

As always, your learned and sage wisdom is greatly appreciated.

[Bill Wilson]

Depending on how rough the surface is, I would suggest starting out with a little hand sanding with a block. Be careful with any power sanding to avoid creating an uneven surface. Might be smooth, but if it's uneven, that isn't any good either.

When I got mine a few years ago, I took a scotch brite pad and a block of wood and went over it to smooth the surface. Then a little steel wool before applying a coat of paste wax. The wax should be reapplied every so often to protect the surface and keep it smooth. Use a furniture wax, not a car wax. Many car waxes contain silicone and it's been said that the silicone can transfer to the surface of the wood and mess up finishes.

[unixpro]

Interesting. My 788 table was smooth when I got it. I have dripped glue and paint onto it from time to time, but a little light sanding gets that out pretty easily.

I use Johnson's paste wax on the table top from time to time. I also use it on my table saw, for the same reason -- it makes things slide across the surface more easily. I've tried various specialty cleaners, but I've never found anything better than a little mineral spirits to clean the table followed by a nice waxing.

[KtownScroller]

Try sanding it with emery cloth or emery paper. Emery works best to cut metals. Then seal it up with some wax.

[Mick Walker]

Jim, when I bought a new Delta P-20 a few years ago I thought the table was a little rough. I used my random orbit sander starting with 150 grit, then 180, 220, 240, 320 and finally 400 grit. You won't harm a cast iron table with wood sandpaper. Just keep the sander moving. I got it smooth as a baby's butt. I then applied a couple coats of Johnson's past wax which I do every month or so.

[azbison]

Mick, that's exactly what I was going to do.... I was just looking to see if there were other good ideas from the collective group. (Which there usually are)

[miniwoodworker]

ditto mineral spirits, steel wool, and Johnson's paste wax.

Also, try scrolling with it before you sand. It's been my experience that if the table is too smooth, it's harder to control some cuts.

If too rough, next try waxing it and give it a try. If still too rough, remove the wax with spirits and lightly sand it. Repeat, as needed to get the surface that you want. With each repeat, get a little more agressive in how you tackle it. Work from least to most, as the more agressive you get the more chance there is that damage can happen.

Just my 2-cents.
Lee

[KtownScroller]

Originally Posted by Mick Walker

Jim, when I bought a new Delta P-20 a few years ago I thought the table was a little rough. I used my random orbit sander starting with 150 grit, then 180, 220, 240, 320 and finally 400 grit. You won't harm a cast iron table with wood sandpaper. Just keep the sander moving. I got it smooth as a baby's butt. I then applied a couple coats of Johnson's past wax which I do every month or so.

The only thing with using sandpaper is that it is specific for wood and excels at cutting wood. Emery paper or cloth is specific for metal and excels at cutting metal. Although both can be interchanged to a certain extent, using the right paper for the job makes all the difference.

The orbital sander is a great idea and if Jim uses emery paper or cloth the job will get done in half the time. Maybe he would be able to skip some of the steps as well.

Just my two cents worth. No harm intended Mick.

[ncsealeveler]

I used wet sanding paper from 220 to 1500 then wax.Tony