Best Way to Clean Rust From Top and Keep it off

[TheScrollMaster]

Hi

On another Forum I posted asking the same question and got some good info,But I figure a site thats just for Scrolling I should ask here too and compare the info I got.

I'M NOT TRYING TO STEP ON ANY MEMBERS OF THAT FORUMS TOES HERE, IF YOU SEE THIS.
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I'm looking for the best info on how to get all rust of and keep it off

Here is the Saw a Delta

[TheScrollMaster]

I was told this is what has to be done

1,400 Grit Paper with WD40

2,Top Coat to seal it

Do they make spray in a can to eat away the rust

Also can a Die grinder with a 3M Roloc Bristol Disc work too

I'm looking for all the info I can

[lucky788scroller]

not to long ago there was a thread covering this very thing. I sand with 400 grit on a wood block, wipe down with mineral spirits, then wipe down with rubbing alcohol, then apply a good coat of Johnsons Paste Wax on the top, and buff that with a rag. Once the rust is off, DONT let it get rusty, wax it once in a while.

[TheScrollMaster]

Originally Posted by lucky788scroller

not to long ago there was a thread covering this very thing. I sand with 400 grit on a wood block, wipe down with mineral spirits, then wipe down with rubbing alcohol, then apply a good coat of Johnsons Paste Wax on the top, and buff that with a rag. Once the rust is off, DONT let it get rusty, wax it once in a while.

Hi would you have a link to that topic

So Mineral Spirits not WD-40

BTW is this 400 Grit Paper Wet or Dry that I need

Also I was told Wax was a NO NO because you will always have to buff the top when you want to use it.

I was all ready to buy this

Boeshield T-9® Protectant and Lubricant - Lee Valley Tools

And then was told you will always have to give it a buff before using the saw

So I was going to buy this instead Tommrow

TopCote® Table & Tool Surface Sealant - Lee Valley Tools

[greatdane2]

I use the topcoat and it sure works well for me.

[Steviegwood]

I have used the Topcoat and it does work well but it is pricey. Most of us probably use the paste wax on our tool beds. I have used the wax for several years and it has never affected my wood in any way. Just apply the wax let it dry to the white film and buff it off. Be careful afterwards because it makes it very slick. Steve

[Rolf]

That top looks pretty nasty I would use the 3m discs to polosh the top first, I am a firm believer in power! Wipe the top down until the rag or paper towel comes up clean.'
I use the Johnson paste wax, I have never heard that you have to buff it every time you use it.
I also have the Top Coat and use it on all my other tools, it is worth the price.

[Kepy]

I have an old Delta that I bought 30+ yrs ago that was covered in rust. I cleaned it with naval jelly and it has been fine ever since.

[TheMediaBoy]

Living in wet & humid Central Florida I have long done the battle with rust. And with a shop full of expensive tools it's not a battle that I can afford to lose.

TheScrollMaster, if that were my saw I would first see how/if you could completely remove the table. That would make the rust removal easier and avoid getting any solvent where it shouldn't be (motor, blade clamps, etc.).

Then I grab my old 1/4 sheet finishing sander, some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and some solvent (WD-40 is fine, so is mineral spirits). All the solvent does is help to keep the sandpaper from loading up. Then I would go to town on it, occasionally wiping the rusty slurr off the top, reapplying the solvent, and going after it again.

Depending on how smooth you want the finish to be you might want to switch over to 600 grit, and possibly to 800 grit paper. Just be patient and take your time. (BTW, 1000 grit will give you an almost a mirror-like finish).

When all of the rust is gone and you're satisfied with the look & finish, wipe down it down with clean solvent, then wipe it down again. Then do a final thorough cleaning with Denatured Alcohol (rubbing alcohol may work as well). Either of these doesn not leave any residue, where WD-40 or mineral spirits will.

Next, break out the paste wax (NOT car wax). Hit it with a generous coat, let it dry completely, and buff it off. Then hit it again.

On my scroll saw I normally clean it about once a month with denatured aclohol and reapply a coat of wax. This is because it's one of my most used tools and a clean top is critical. On my other cast iron tools I reapply the wax two to three times twice a year. Using this method I have almost no rust problems.

I've tried Boeshield and hated it (stayed tacky forever), and it didn't protect from rust as well as the paste wax. I haven't tried TopCoat, but since this method works in Florida, I don't see the need.

[TerryInMich]

I use topcote and like it. It is expensive, but each application lasts for months - I've still got the first spray can that I bought over 2 years ago.
Terry