Blue tape blues

[Arcy]

Hi all,

I have been doing some stack cutting, but am having trouble with the tape marring the finish of some 1/4" oak.

Before starting, I sanded both sides to 220, then stacked it and mummified the stack with low-tack blue painter's tape. I glued the pattern to that and cut it out.

Everything came out very well, except that when I pulled the tape off of the outer boards it took a bunch of splinters with it, ruining my nice smooth surface.

The already cut pieces are a lot harder to sand, so I'd rather find a way to keep them pristine.

Anybody have any suggestions?

If I put poplar on the outer layer it doesn't have the same problem, but that only works if I want poplar cuttings as well. I suppose I could put a thinner layer of something else so the tape doesn't come in direct contact with the wood, so long as it is heavy enough (cardboard?) not to flap around when it's detached.

Thanks,
Rob

[minowevie]

Rob, a lot of folks use the tape thing, but not me. it is a botter. for sure. but I just spray my pattern then place it on the sanded wood . and cut away. I hot glue the sides to keep my stack together. and brads if it is to big. and it works for me. your friend Evie

[Okie_Arkie_Wood_Cutter]

Try the purple tape. It really works well for me, but more expensive than the blue tape. I have found that I get clean releases with the purple painter's tape after a month or more. Also brushing a light coating of mineral spirts will help remove the blue tape with no wood fibers pulled off with the tape.

[Bill Wilson]

I use mineral spirits to loosen tape and/or pattern adhesive and then to clean off any residue. Works well for me.

Another option would be to put some type of sacrificial layer on the top & bottom of your stack. It could even be a piece of posterboard or scrap wood, anything that you can throw away instead of trying to get the tape off.

[kerfmaker]

Hi,

Blue painter's tape is supposed to be a clean release tape but, like any tape the longer is is on, the tighter it sticks. If, for some reason, I can't finish the cutting the same day and I have to leave the tape on, then before attempting to remove it I "warm" it up with a blow-dryer to re-activite the adhesieve,

I've never had a problem with it splintering hardwoods, but it can (literally) lift wood off the surface of Baltic Birch. So, for me. it is best to warm it when I want to take it off the BB also.

Bob B

[Wood Dog]

Purple Painters tape for me.......no problems, no stink, no mess.

[Janette]

I've heard that the cheap brands of the blue tape don't stick as well as the "good" brands. You could try clear packing tape also. More grainy woods such as oak ply are more prone to the splintering. And the longer it is on, the more it will stick so try to cut soon after taping.

[jim_mex]

Hi Rob - I tried cutting some oak the other day for the first time and found it to be splintery too. I got around it by using 2" clear tape first, then I stick the pattern to the tape using normal lowtack spray adhesive and then put another layer of scotch tape on top of the pattern to make sure I got plenty of blade lubrication. Only problem is making sure the clear tape doesn't wrinkle as you lay it.

Some members have complained the clear tape on top of the pattern creates static and the sawdust doesnt blow away easy but for me it wasn't a problem I just clear it by placing a small fan next to my scroll saw. This also helps in stopping my reading glasses fogging with dust!!

I guess another workaround could be to seal the surface of the oak slightly using whatever finish you intend to end up in order to reduce the wood porosity and tendency to splinter. I haven't tried this but it seems logical to my way of thinking But then, you know a bit about my way of thinking - LOL!

Update - seems Janette posted as I was typing. Follow the lady!!!

[Jr_Ranger]

Rob,
I used to stack cut a lot of oak and after gluing my stack with hot glue, glue the pattern and put packing tape on top of the pattern like Jim did. I also use the smallest blade that I can for the stack seems to burnish the edge without burning and little to no splinters. Haven't had any problems yet. I also use a mouse sander that works really well if you can keep it flat, sand and lift don't slide. Would love to see your ornaments.

[Hobbyhorse]

Rob,
If you warm the pattern with a hot air gun before you try to remove it you will find that the adhesive softens and it comes off a lot more easily. The only way that I can remove my glued on paper sanding discs from my 10" sanding disc in one piece is to warm the face first by sanding a scrap of wood first. Tearing small bits of sandpaper from a backing disc is not fun!!

Rhys