Highly accurate veneer inlay

[FrA]

Hi,

I have cut some straight veneer inlays with good results. Looking for absolute perfection, I first calculated and then test-sawed a few pieces (two layers of veneer, thin plywood carrier) at the required high angle of table tilt (30-35 degrees!) to let the top veneer fall precisely into the lower veneer cutout. Testing simple shapes - circles, irregulars etc. went reasonably well, but with more intricate shapes I found it extremely difficult to follow the pattern line. It's like starting to scroll-saw all over again, the blade tends to "run away" and the handling of the wood around corners or at edges without exerting sideway pressure becomes almost impossible due to the steep table tilt.
Does anybody have some tips & tricks to share?

Fritz

[Gill]

Hi Fritz

I've also been dabbling with inlays using veneers and found it very difficult to follow the pattern with the table at such a steep angle. I had my table set at 25 degrees - you must have been using extremely fine veneers to have set yours at 35 degrees. I used an old cardboard box instead of plywood as my carrier because plywood is getting pretty expensive.

The next time, I think I may insert a piece of thin card between the top veneer and the bottom veneer as a waster so that I don't need to tilt the table quite so acutely. As you say, it's like learning to scroll all over again.





The cat was my second attempt (both Pat Spielman patterns) and I definitely found it easier, even if I still strayed from the pattern quite noticeably. Cutting tight turns, even with a 2/0 blade, is quite an experience with the table tilted so acutely! As you'll be able to see from my photos, I need a lot more practise. Perhaps it might be an idea to run an abrasive up the back of the blade next time, rounding it and making turns easier (theoretically). I might also try to acquire some finer jewellers blades.

On the plus side, I was really happy to get a similar quality to that which I can achieve cutting marquetry with a knife.

Gill

[Chase]

Gill has seen this. I'm posting for others to see and comment. Roy is now part of White Tail Designs and was a co-founder of Scorller LTD.

RoyTech

Chase

[Rolf]

I have a couple of ideas.
1. Put the whole mess on top of a piece od 1/4 inch scrap and then cut it. I believe that would give you more control.
2. Mount your saw at an angle so that the table is level (any body ever tried this?)
3. Buy a Excalibur where the table is level and the blade moves.

4. HMMM maybe I will mount my G4 on a rotisery and give it a shot.

[Gill]

I can see where you're coming from, Rolf. It's your destination that's got me worried.

Gill

[Rolf]

Gill,
you and my wife think alike
I work in high energy physics R&D so weird ideas come with the territory.

[FrA]

Gill,
I think you've been quite successful - don't be too modest! One way appears to be to keep trying ...

Rolf,
The idea of tilting the whole system to keep the table level is brilliant! I'll give it a try and I'll report back.

Fritz