Hey BobD

[Smokey]

On the 15th you mentioned that you were eyeing some 'walnut branches' for potential hiking sticks. I just wondered if they will give you what you are looking for---Black Walnut is one of my favorite woods to carve but it does have its faults. 1st -- seldom can one find straight enough branches, 2nd--that are of sufficient width, to make a good stick. In the center of the wood of all walnut species is the 'pith center',(a soft cellular structure) that can ruin a good carving, unless you contemplate and plan for its location.

If you want to remove the bark--you need to do it as soon as the branch is trimmed--or you will have to carve it off when it dries. If you cut a branch thick enough for a good stick, you will find that the wood inside is white and not the dark, rich color that you are expecting. The dark wood of Black Walnut and the chestnut brown of other walnut doesn't appear until the branch or tree is far too big and mature to be of use as a hiking staff.

If you want the color of Walnut for a stick--It would probably save you alot of time and disappointment, if you just rip about 2' x 2' from a piece of stabile wood without the pith.

Input

[BobD]

Thanks Smokey...that was what I was asking all along! I guess I didn't ask correctly.

I know that walnut isn't great until it's at least 100 years old (which I know the trees in my yard are) but I didn't think about the branches not being 100 years old

I do have some maple saplings that I have to cut down each summer (as they get close to my power lines)...I know people have suggested maple before, but since it grows very fast, would that wood still be good?

I just realized how little I know about stick carving...

Bob

If you have 1 1/2' to 2' diameter maple whips, Bob, they will make great sticks. Once it is dry it is HARD. Peel the bark right away, and you are better off stripping the bark when the sap is starting to run in the spring. If you let the stick dry, the bark is a bear to remove!

I have a knobby maple I'm working on now, but will most likely not carve it, beyond accenting the knobs. I've found that some of the natural sticks holler very loudly at me 'DON'T YOU DARE CARVE ME!' One such stick is that twisted aspen I found and the knobby maple is another, although I may just defy the hollering of the maple stick!

I haven't decided what to do with the top of the twisted aspen yet, but it is stripped, lightly stained to bring out the highlights and varnished. I have a couple different sized compasses that I'm thinking about putting in a topper, but this stick is 'cane size' so not sure.

Al

[Ky_Whittler]

I agree with Al archie on those maple whips. Peel them and start carving within a week. If cut now you can peel what you want and leave the rest if that is your wish. The smooth bark makes for an interesting contrast with a carving in it.

One thing I do with larger standing dead sasafras is to split them with wedges and shave them round with a drawknife. You can do the same with walnut. I know with sasafras you get the nice heartwood grain patterns to work with.Whittler

[BobD]

I don't have a drawknife, but I've got a spokeshave...will that work?

Bob

a neighbor picked up a good quality butcher knife at a garage sale, he ground off the point so the the end was flat and then sharpened so that the end was sharp and right around the 'corner' if you will....this blunt end pops bark off faster than you can believe.....I am not sure it isn't a bit better than a drawknife...I think you would spend all your time cleaning out a spokeshave!

Bob - If you happen on a drawknife, make sure it's dull. The dull knife will take the bark off without digging into the wood (old bow makers trick that I can't take credit for).

Maple makes a great stick and though it is hard it carves nicely and holds detail well as long as your tools are sharp enough.

As Smokey said, the dark walnut is the heartwood and you would be better off buying 2X stock and ripping it if you want dark walnut color.

[Ky_Whittler]

For working down split stock a spokeshave will do nicely. You can do the rough work with a hatchet or bandsaw , then turn to the shave. I like leaving some tool marks in such a stick anyway , it leaves facets to catch the light and show off the grain.

For removing bark a dull draw knife is good, but I prefer mine shaving sharp. You can find old drawknives at estate auctions or antique dealers. Once in a while thye have one that's in rough shape that can be bought cheaply. Around my part of the country the most I ever gave for one in good shape at a sale was 10 dollars. Heck , I even bought a carpenters axe at another for 7 dollars.My broadaxe cost me 45 dollars. You might be surprised at what you can find in your neck of the woods. Whittler

One more handy tool to have around is a ferrier's rasp ... should be able to find one of those for a couple bucks also