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| | #1 |
| Guest
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Goodmorning gang, As you probably know I love carving found wood it has so much character. Yesterday morning at the gym one of the guys brought me in a piece of wild plum said for me to give it a try. This piece of wood came out of his wood pile, bark on and everything. Well I am really into it now and have all th bark taken away and probably half way though the carving. The wood is increadible very tight grain it is almost peach coloured with flecks in it. It also takes incredible detail. My question because its probably the most beautiful wood I have ever carved is firstly. Has anyone carved or worked with plum before? Secondly if so what would be the best oil to stain it with. I have a habit of using Sikkens but for this piece of wood it would just cover up its beauty. Would you use a mineral oil or wax. I ask because I just dont have any idea at all and would be devestated if I ruined this piece. Colin ??? |
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| | #2 |
| Member |
trying the oil & the wax on a scrap piece to see what you like best?
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| | #3 |
| Guest
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I use Deft a lot, mostly because it doesn't change the appearance and color of the wood, just a protection, altho, it takes a number of coats....not a finish expert by any means! |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member |
I have yet to try plum. Let us know how it turns out. My better half wants me to cut down two scraggly plum trees that the birds seem to get the plums before we do. your carving might just get me to cut them down. macktruck
__________________ Honey, Where are the band-aids, again? |
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| | #5 |
| Guest
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Colin: Your tung oil or Danish oil type finishes are basically 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 varnish, 1/3 thinner. What a lot of furniture finishers use to bring out the grain before putting on a finish is a mixture of 1/2 boiled linseed oil and 1/2 paint thinner, (you call it something different up there.) Be sure it drys throughly before putting anything else on. If you can smell it, it hasn't cured. I don't believe the water based finishes will yellow over time, although I have never objected to the aging and patina that occurs with varnish. Uncoated wood ages anyway. An easy finish over that is a wiping varnish. Wiping varnish is 1/2 varnish and 1/2 thinner. A couple of coats is a nice thin finish that will protect it from handling and dusting. If you use a satin or gloss, be sure you mix it well before you blend it and keep stirring while you are using it. Otherwise, your piece won't have a consistent look. The above is for a piece to be kept indoors. Good Luck Ken in So Cal |
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| | #6 |
| Guest
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i think that if you do not want to darken the color of your wood i would go with tung oil,as it been my experience that it does not darken the wood like danish oil or teak oil.ishould be seing a wood turning friend on Monday,and i'll ask him if he has every turn plum and what he used as a finish, and the results and let you know
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| | #7 |
| Guest
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Colin: If you can find 'Tung Oil' and use it straight, it will take a month of Sundays for it to dry. It is rare that 'Tung Oil' finish has even a drop of Tung oil in it. Nearly 100% of the time, Tung Oil Finish, or Danish Oil finish is a blend of Boiled linseed oil, thinner, & varnish. Thats why it takes so many coats. Only 1/3rd of it is varnish. Happy finishing Ken in So Cal |
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