fuzzys

[tony coleman]

hi all.
i know this is probably a common question,and may be asked over and over again.....how do you remove the fuzzys left behind from cutting a potrait.i know stack cutting goes some way too helping out this problem,but
what if you only want too cut one piece.does putting tape on the back of the piece realy work?.any other hints......

[Santa's Woodshop]

The way I get rid of fuzzy's is as I cut the piece I put the cutout back in and it's held in place with tape. When I'm finished I sand the back with a palm sander (150 grit). Any fuzzy's that are left on it I use a torch to remove.
Pat...

[wood-n-things]

Any fuzzy's that are left on it I use a torch to remove.

[proudrex]

I use blue painters tape on most projects. It can be a pain on delicate fretwork between the project and the table but I get less tearout with it. I also use FDSR or FDUR blades. At first I wasn't really sold on the Ultimate Reverse blades but the more I've used them the more I like them. I get less blade breakage that I get with the Skip Reverse blades. And if the project does need sanding at the end I use sanding sponges that I get from Harbor Freight (not a fan of a lot of their tools but supplies are inexpensive). The sponges are stiff and I seldom get project breakage when using them because I control the pressure.
Rex

[normded]

I'm with the mike one of them anyway i use a plumbers torch and go back and forth fast and they burn right off. just don't stay in one place to long or you now have designer fire wood. lmao

Jerry

[Mick Walker]

Tony, I use the torch method. I place a flat piece of scrap against the front side to keep the flame from the good side. I stand it up while using the torch. Tiny files I use for the ones I miss with the torch. Keep the flame turned down as low as it will go.

[lucky788scroller]

The best way is to use a blade that doesnt cause all the fuzzies!! Try using a small, reverse tooth flat blade. Its a lot safer than going at your work with a torch in my opinion!

[Chris "The Wood Artist"]

I use the torch method also except I use the small "pencil torch". I also use Reverse blades and use the speed control which helps do away with most of the "fuzzies". What's left I take the torch (which I found a way to detail the pieces with one day. Got to close with the torch and cause it to show on the good side, but to my surprise made for a nice detail, at least on that particular piece, haven't gotten daring enough to try to do that on purpose.)

[Sally]

So I'm watching the tips in this thread. What is a "pencil torch". I haven't done much fret (is all woodworking called "fret" if you have to drill holes and cut little parts out) Some of the pieces that I've made with 1/2" oak are not wonderful - fuzzies and not too smooth. They are hard to sand. But I've started a Steve Good pattern of the candle holder with the hearts and I'm doing better. I'm changing the blade more - so it's sharp and trying to be smooth with my cutting. Any other tips?

[wood-n-things]

A pencil torch is a small butane torch with a small end to help control the flame more.
I use one that has an attachment that cause the flame to "flare", become wider so it is not quite so intense at the point of the contact.
Try using a backer either as a stack cut or for a waste piece, and I'm really becoming fond of the UR blades. I had a problem with control issues when they first came out but I'm getting the hang of them now.

The other thing you can do is of course, practice, practice. Which every time you create a new piece you are doing.