Attaching Backer Boards

[Pete_M]

While waiting for the clock kit to come in I decided to cut that cross in the latest issue of SSW&C.

Got it all cut and want to attach it to the backer board it calls for. Never having done something like this I'm wondering how you attach the two together? DO you just tack glue it in several places, or glue it all around?

On other projects they don't really recommend gluing all around as contrasting woods will shrink and expand differently causing things to split over time. So am wondering if this is a cause for concern on fretwork?

Pete

[wood-n-things]

I glue the entire backer piece on. I don't know if it's right or not but I've never had anything split or crack.

I try not to get too much squeeze out. If there are a lot of interior fret pieces I tend to tack glue so the glue does not squeeze into the ornate areas. It is difficult to clean this up.

Hope that made sense...

For felt or foamies I adhere them with spray on glue.

[Ellenburg48]

Those are really good questions and I will be interested in hearing the answers. I've only done a couple pieces with backers and I used the same CA glue to glue them on to the backers. I spread it all over carefully to avoid squeeze out. I'd hate to think that, over time, I will end up with split or cracked pieces. What is the proper way of attaching a backer?
Christina

[Pete_M]

Mike,

Thanks for the come back. Your experience puts my mind at rest. I wanted to do a complete glue up anyway as I'll need to do some filing on the outer edges where the curves and straight lines aren't quite as good as I'd like.

Christina,

Good idea on using CA for the job. I get kinda fixated on Elmer's white glue for most everything but think your idea might be better. What would you recommend? Medium or thick CA?

My experience has been with putting together things like inserts in door panels that would tend to rattle around if not restrained a bit. The thinking is to put a small line of glue on each side of the vertical grain and sides. This then will allow the sides and panels to expand and contract more or less independently. Dissimilar woods are more susceptible to splitting such as is the case on the cross project where Walnut is the face piece and Baltic Birch is the backer.

Pete

[wood-n-things]

some filing on the outer edges where the curves and straight lines aren't quite as good as I'd like.

If you have a sander it will save alot of elbow grease...LOL You might also try using a black sharpie or other permanent marker to trim the edges with..it seems to help cover some of the boo boo's we all make. Just rub it around the outer edge when you are all done.....

[Pete_M]

Mike,

Your idea of edging with black ink/paint was what I planned on doing, but the curves around the arms aren't good enuf to suit me. (lol) Yes.... I know.... I've been told I'm to much of a perfectionist and nobody will notice.

Pete

[wood-n-things]

Nobody will notice but you...and You are important...so fix em and then post some pics for us to drool over.

I find if I mount my sander upside down with some clamps I can get a nice edge with more control...I also have other sanders now that do a really nice job but before I got those I had my belt sander upside down in my bench vise so long it began talking gibberish from the blood going to it's head for way too long.

[Pete_M]

Mike,

Another question for you. What would be a good finish to use. Spray I'd assume, but what do you like?

Will also need to stain it as it's to splotchy looking to suit me. Got any ideas along that line.

And will post a picture when I'm done. (lol) Not to sure you'll drool over it tho.

If I was going to do another one I think I'd cut the face board out of 1/8" material rather than the 1/4" I used. The backer board doesn't show thru the thinner lines all tha twell and I think 1/8" would do a better job. Talk about a waste of wood. All I could get locally was 3/4" so had to plane it down.

Pete

[wood-n-things]

Another question for you. What would be a good finish to use. Spray I'd assume, but what do you like?

I would dip it in tung oil with Mineral spirits mixed. 50/50. Let it drip dry for a wehile then blow off the excess. The I'd clear coat it with your favorite spray clear coat...most here like deft.

I'd sand between coats with up to 220 grit. final coat I use a piece of brown paper sack and buff it out then I top if off with liquid gold (name brand available at wally world) that will be smooth as a babies butt.

If it is splotchy be careful with body oils on the wood surface prior to staining if you choose to ruin a nice piece of walnut with stain...

If I was going to do another one I think I'd cut the face board out of 1/8" material rather than the 1/4" I used. The backer board doesn't show thru the thinner lines all tha twell and I think 1/8" would do a better job. Talk about a waste of wood. All I could get locally was 3/4" so had to plane it down.

Planing down 3/4 stock does kinda make ya feel a little queezy huh....

I think I still would do the face piece out of 1/4" stock but I'd make the backer a contrasting color to make it pop...You don't want the emphasis on the backer anyway..you did all the work on the face piece.

[lucky788scroller]

I try to spread a fine bead of glue all the way around the perimeter, and a few dabs here and there on the inner fretwork. Be sure you use a glue that dries clear. Also, a glue that has a bit of give will work better than CA glue for this. CA glue had a tendancy to get brittle over time, and if theres any wood movement, theres a chance it can pop loose. I use Aileens quickdry tacky glue in the silver labled bottle. Ive glued many big clocks together with it, as well as countless small plaques and other projects, and I have never had any problem with it not staying glued.Try to get any squeezeout , but in case you miss a little, you'll be glad your glue dries clear. On things like the cross your talking about, I even just use Aileens tacky glue to hold the sawtooth hanger on the back. I put a blob where each end of the sawtooth hanger will be, then I press the hanger down on those blobs, and let it schmoo up through the little nail holes on the hanger.It is a good strong bond.
For finish, I would soak it good with danish oil, and wipe off the excess after about 5 minutes. Let that set 24 hours or so, then spray some clearcoat on it with an aerosol can.Usually I use Deft clear gloss wood finish, and spray on two or three light coats, then sand with 400 grit, give it another coat of the gloss. Sand again with 400, then spray my final coat on that using Deft semi-gloss clear.