Matting Cuttings

[JohnB]

G'day all,
I've noticed that some of you talented people matt your cuttings when framing them.

I know how matting works when framing pics, but you have me stumped on how to go about it with a cutting.

The thing I can't figure out is how do you compensate for the thickness of the timber, from which the cutting was made.

Usually, the photograph is behind the matt board, but when you use 3mm or 6mm ply how do you get it all level.

I hope this makes sense and that someone who can understand it knows the answer.

[Jediscroller]

John,
I don't typically matt my stuff as I can't seem to give it away with a matt but when I've tried the way I matted was that the outside dimensions of the matt matched the oustide dimensions of the cutting (this basically means I had a larger than normal border around the cutting).
I'm not sure what other ways folks go about it but I am curious to read their answers.

[Janette]

One thing with matting I found when making pressed flower pictures - was that not eveyone likes the same colors so I had to always have extra mats on hand to re-mat at a show when someone liked a piece but not the mat color. I think if you were to mat fret work - if you use a black background- a black mat would look dramatic and add to the piece.

[f250]

I just finished a cutting yesterday, matted and framed it. Since I failed to put everything inside the frame that I wanted to, I will be taking it apart probably tonight and take some pictures for you so you can see how I do it.

Really the worst part is cutting the matt yourself. If you are smart enough to pre-plan properly (I screw that up most of the time) then you can order mats from some good places on line. That basically leaves you with nothing to do but throw it in the frame.

Tom

[f250]

Because I struggle with brain power I had to cut this mat all on my own.* I ordered and just wasn't thinking.* The next coming from me will be mats I ordered in bulk on line.

Because of the color thing previously mentioned, I don't strongly secure my cutting to the mat.* you can see that the cutting is smaller and then held in place with masking tape. Next I put in my colored backing and the backer board.

Things are all pinched in place and it is good to go.And of course the finished project.

P.S. you can see on the back of my cutting where I used the blow torch to help remove the last of those darn fuzzies...

Tom

[Gypsum]

John,
The answer is that it isn't easy. The biggest problem is to find wooden frames that have the depth to use matting. Since I cut portraits in 3mm Baltic birch and double matte, it can be a challenge. I try to find frames that have at least 13mm depth. When you have glass, board, and double matte, it gets tight. Now one thing that helps is to use a larger frame than the cutting. Allow 50 - 75mm on each side. This allows the backer to bend in and provide enough wood on the frame to support the brads that holds the backer in place. If you double matte, there may be a slight bulge in the back but this isn't noticeable once the picture is hung.

At Woodcraft I found a tool called a Picture Framing Brad Setter that lets me use glazier points to drive into the frame to hold everything in place. The tool works like pliers so you can squeeze the brad into place gently. The bad part is that there is a sharp edge left sticking out to snag unwary fingers. I solve this by putting electrical tape over the brads on the back after assembly. Don't stretch the tape tight as it will pull off over time. If I use a smaller frame and the glazier point won't work, I use small nail brads at an angle. If you use the brads, ding the point with a hammer to make a flat end. This lets the brad punch into the wood and reduces the tendency to split.

Here are a couple of pieces:

[Rolf]

John,
all of the pieces that I have framed and matted were done in 1/8 baltic birch so it isn't much of an issue. I also make my own frames so that I can compensate for the extra material.

[sawdustus]

I haven't matted many fretwork pieces but you can buy frames that have a deep rabbet for matting watercolor paintings, or fine prints,which typically have a glass, a double mat, an acid free backer and a thick support backer to fit into the rabbet. Since you don't need the thick support backer with wood, you might be able to use these. An alternative is to make your own frame and make the rabbet as deep as you need to include the thickness of the wood.
You can also buy a mat cutter at an art supply store and make your own mats. This is much cheaper than buying them and gives you a greater range of color, thickness and style to work with. The techniques for using them are not difficult but do take some practice.
Hope this helps John.

George

[minowevie]

John, I don't know If I will be ANY help hear. but this is a little old tool I have. I think you can still get them. they do a bevaled cut, on the inside of the edges. it does a 45degree, or a 90degree.cut. it has a positive blade lock, that assures the constant degree cut. I am not sure if you can still buy them, but this one came from X-ACTO/45-35 Van Dam Street/Long Island City, NY.11101

and also, what Kevin said, about leaving some room all around you project to place the matt. I think you could also. add the wood latter, if you boobooed like I did. hope this helps. your friend Evie sorry the picture is not very good.

[f250]

I got my matt board cutter at either Woodworker's Supply or Woodcraft, but there a whole bunch of places you can get one. Don't go super cheap, you get what you pay for.

Tom