Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
* Browse over 200,000 posts.
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team.
| ||LinkBack||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
|01-19-2013, 09:22 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Thanked 122 Times in 103 Posts
I guess it depends on the type of box I'm making. Mostly if I make a square box I will use miter joints for small projects and put splines in them if I feel they need more strength.
I hear the folks in Washington and Colorado have started rolling their joints. Sorry, couldn't pass on this one.
"...vegetarian is an Indian word meaning lousy hunter." Steve Smith (aka Red Green)
|The Following User Says Thank You to Max For This Useful Post:|| |
|01-19-2013, 11:35 PM||#3|
Just A Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Honaker, Virginia
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
I use a dovetail joint anytime I can and as long as the stock is thick enough, 1/4" is about as thin as I can make a dovetail.
It's only a mistake if someone saw you do it.
It's not about what saw you drive. It's about the skill you drive it with.
|02-01-2013, 03:37 PM||#4|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Galaxy far, far away
Blog Entries: 6
Thanked 302 Times in 59 Posts
I typically use half-laps for boxes. They are very strong and very quick to do (granted, most of my work is done in a more production oriented style so speed counts). For my one personal box that I've made I used Box Joints.
Scrollsaw Patterns Online
Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671
|02-01-2013, 07:36 PM||#5|
Naughty, but nice!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pachuca, Mexico
Thanked 179 Times in 139 Posts
Hi Will - Having just invested in a sliding miter saw with which I hope soon to make a lot of simple boxes, I'll be following Don's lead. When necessary I have a spline jig at the ready to whistle the boxes through the table saw to either strengthen them or use a contrasting spline as a decorative feature.
having said this I think choosing the joint depends very much on what sort of box you want to make. For cheap and cheerful boxes where emphasis is maybe on the decoration rather than on the design and making of the box I'd say that half-laps or miters are the way to go. For top notch well designed and made boxes were emphasis is on the craftsmanship there are many possibilities with probably combed or finger joints and dovetails in various forms towards the top of the list.
Jim in Mexico
Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.
- Albert Einstein
|02-01-2013, 08:32 PM||#6|
Join Date: Mar 2005
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Splined mitre joints are strong and attractive. You can't cut mitre joints accurately with just a scroll saw though! I prefer to use a table saw for mine but it would certainly be feasible to make them with a table-mounted router or possibly even a sanding station.
There is no opinion, however absurd, which men will not readily embrace as soon as they can be brought to the conviction that it is readily adopted.
(Schopenhauer, Die Kunst Recht zu Behalten)
|02-01-2013, 09:47 PM||#7|
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Broken Arrow, Okla.
Thanked 59 Times in 49 Posts
I've been making slide boxes. With a solid piece cut out the center with the scroll saw and leave about 1/2 " for the walls of the box, then cut that in 2 pieces of 1/4" each withe the scroll saw then one will slide over the other, then fasten the top to a plate and the bottom to another and you have a slide box.