Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board (http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/)
-   Beginners Scroll Saw (http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/beginners-scroll-saw/)
-   -   Double Bevel Marquetry - blade slippage (http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/beginners-scroll-saw/22730.htm)

gthornhi 06-02-2009 11:02 AM

Double Bevel Marquetry - blade slippage
 
Hey folks,

New to marquetry, intermediate skills with general woodworking.

I picked up a used Delta 40-150 saw, it came with the pinless adapters - allen wrench tightening style

I've played around with the angles of the table quite a bit and with the thin veneers I have, I'm looking at about a 20 degree angle to get the pieces to fit snugly . So far so good (albeit a lot of trial and error to get the angle correct)

On to my primary challenge - blade slippage. I first mount the blades up per the manual's instructions. Inverted, I put the bottom clamp with the blade upside down into the top mount, crank down on the holder screw, then give the blade a good tighten in the clamps. Then I release the top mount screw, flip the blade over, thread through the veneer, insert into the top clamp and repeat the tightening procedure. Then I back off the top mount screw as the manual says to leave about 1/16 slack. OK, so far so good. That 1/16 slack eliminated a pounding sound that was coming from the machine and now allows me to saw 6 or so inches before the blade slips out. The more tension I put on the blade, the quicker it slips out, the less tension I put on the blade, the more those thin 2/0 blades deflect and I have no accuracy.

FYI I've yet to break a blade so not sure if that's any indication of whether I'm not putting enough tension on the blade.

In doing a little bit of searching on the forum, I'm hearing that I should probably take a little solvent and clean the blade clamps and the blades to remove any oil residue, that I might also scuff up the ends of the blades a bit with something like 220 to give the clamps something to bite into.

Anything else I can to do help with this constant slippage? I've yet to have a single successful cutout without having to reinstall the blades. I'm getting a bit frustrated.

Any advice would be most appreciated.

Greg

Ramjet 06-02-2009 12:43 PM

The solvent and sandpaper works for me . You might check your set screws to see they are flat and may need to be roughed up . I have a dewalt and at the end of the screw which tightens to the blade there is an o ring holding the moveable screw end in place . Sometime this gets plugged and needs to be cleaned . This helps when tightening to prevent the screw from twisting the blade .. The end is allowed to turn .Someone with the same saw as yours may know a different technique .Probably clear as mud . Hope it helps a bit .
Roger

gthornhi 06-02-2009 01:24 PM

Thanks Roger. I'm a little confused on the O ring response but guessing that's because my adapter is different than the style you're referencing? Think of mine as a sort of inverted U, where the screw goes through one leg of the U and sets into the other other leg. When I tighten the screw, it pinches the legs of the U together and that's what holds the blade. The blade is not contacting the screw.

Mick Walker 06-02-2009 03:57 PM

gthornhi, I have had a couple Delta scroll saws but never heard of one that you had to switch the bottom and top clamps to change blades. Sounds like quite a hassle. Check with Pozsgai's Designs - Scroll Saw to see if he has clamps that would work on your saw.

GrayBeard Phil 06-02-2009 08:21 PM

Some older Delta scroll saws were made for use with thicker blades. The expected thinnest blade was about a #3. The entire blade clamp may have to be modified to grip such a thin blade as a 2/0. From looking at the Web parts list and parts breakdown drawings for your model, I am sure your blade clamp was intended to be used with larger sized blades.

I read your 2nd post, and from the drawings it may be your "U" has a lot of problems with presure points in the clamp. Any cutting force might twist the blade away from the point of highest clamp preasure.

Mick's idea sound good to me. If you can find a replacement blade clamp for your saw.

Can you tell from the copyright date on the instruction manual, about how old your saw is?

Ramjet 06-02-2009 08:26 PM

Greg ,I just took a look at my old Sears saw and it will take pin and pinless. I only use pinned with it . I upgraded to the Dewalt as I believe the fiddling around took the fun away , especially if you are doing multiple cuts in a fret work piece with lots of drill holes . I think you are sort of limited with the type of project you want to cut . If you are near a store that sells Dewalt saws get them to show you the end of the screw and you will see how it turns so as not to bind the blade .
Roger

scrollpup 06-03-2009 04:35 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ramjet (Post 199870)
Greg ,I just took a look at my old Sears saw and it will take pin and pinless. I only use pinned with it . I upgraded to the Dewalt as I believe the fiddling around took the fun away , especially if you are doing multiple cuts in a fret work piece with lots of drill holes . I think you are sort of limited with the type of project you want to cut . If you are near a store that sells Dewalt saws get them to show you the end of the screw and you will see how it turns so as not to bind the blade .
Roger

I took one of the screws out of my DeWalt and snapped a few pics of it for ya Greg.The last pic shows the cap.It slips into the end of the screw and will "float" when the screw is tightened or loosened.

Jerry C


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:32 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35