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02-23-2007, 01:21 PM
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#1 | | Member
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 35
| Intricate Fretwork I am a new scroller and as I look at all the great work on this site and read through some of the messages I just hope I can be half as good as some of these hear. Great forum, thanks for all the great info. Now to my question. I have done a couple of pieces and as soon as I figure how to load the photos will share with all. I have used FD3/0 blades so far and have had some problems with small work but overall not bad. What is the best blade to use for fretwork?
thanks all,
Pops |
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02-23-2007, 01:25 PM
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#2 | | Moderator CUT IT OUT
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Chilliwack British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 3,695
| Blade selection is based on material, thickness and size of the fretwork pieces you are making.
I have to say the best choice is a matter of personal preference, Try many blades out and keep track of what works for you and where.
Some blades cut more aggressively than others. If you like a blade that is too aggressive you may want to put some plywood under your fretwork and that will increase the load on the blade offering you more control.
Change blades often, we tend to hang on to blades way too long. A dull blade will drift no matter what brand it is.
I tend to use thin blades, but I also get some problems with the blade bowing if I work them too hard.
__________________ CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ "THE LYF SO SHORT, THE CRAFT SO LONG TO LERNE." GUSTAV STICKLEY Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21 |
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02-23-2007, 01:44 PM
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#3 | | Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: SW MN
Posts: 1,667
| Carl just gave you all the advice you need. Experiment with different brands, styles and sizes. What one scroller loves, the next scroller will hate. It's all about personal preference. |
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02-23-2007, 01:50 PM
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#4 | | Technical Editor
Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Lebanon, Pa
Posts: 2,593
| I'm not going to make myself popular here, but I really suggest that you get used to BOTH spiral and flat blades. I've taken the time to get comfortable with both, and it has done WONDERS to help my scrolling abilities. It's really just a matter not limiting yourself and using the tools that make the job the easiest!
Now all the purists can jump me in the back alley <GRIN>
TODD...HELP!!!! LOL
Bob |
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02-23-2007, 01:56 PM
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#5 | | Moderator CUT IT OUT
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Chilliwack British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 3,695
| ![001[1]](http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/images/smilies/001[1].gif) I have to agree with you Bob. I don't use spirals enough. They do have their place.
I have used them in portrait work before. I could not use them for cutting a smooth long curve like the oval outline around a fretwork frame so I switched back to flat blades there.
That reminds me I need to pick some more spirals up 
__________________ CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ "THE LYF SO SHORT, THE CRAFT SO LONG TO LERNE." GUSTAV STICKLEY Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21 |
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02-23-2007, 03:25 PM
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#6 | | Grumpy Old Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Galaxy far, far away
Posts: 2,552
| I think everyone pretty much covered it. The best blade for intricate fretwork is the one you feel most comfortable cutting it with. Personally, I prefer #3 Flat reverse tooth blades, but have used #2/0 and #1 flat reverse as well. I occasionally will butcher a piece with a spiral as well. There is no single "best" blade.
__________________
Kevin Scrollsaw Patterns Online Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671 A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor and bread it has earned - this is the sum of good government. - Thomas Jefferson |
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02-23-2007, 06:12 PM
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#7 | | Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Near Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,030
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by BobD Now all the purists can jump me in the back alley <GRIN>
Bob | Bob, Bob, Bob...... {sigh}
Look, other woodworking forums have long threads about sharpening planes and bench chisels. REALLY long threads. This is on purpose; all the 'purist' get to vent on those threads while everybody else just carries on.
We don't have any plane iron sharpening on this forum. I bet most members here never heard of the 'scary sharp' debate; or how about the ceramic stones threads? So where are the purist supposed to go and pontificate?
Well, I suppose we could re-visit the old solid wood purists vs plywood purists, but wait, didn't that get beat to death a few years ago?
Well, I guess, just stay out of dark alley-ways.
Phil |
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02-23-2007, 06:19 PM
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#8 | | Technical Editor
Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Lebanon, Pa
Posts: 2,593
| I'm a power sharpener...sandpaper on a wooden wheel, then a leather wheel, and finally a buffing wheel. Does what I need it to with my carving tools <GRIN>
But I do have a set of Japanese Waterstones, a set of diamond stones (getting a new sample to try out next week), slipstones, and a couple pieces of MDF with different grits of sandpaper glued to it...
I'm also getting some paper wheels to review soon...
So I've done that all too <GRIN>
Bob |
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02-23-2007, 06:59 PM
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#9 | | Retired
Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Fergus Falls, MN
Posts: 1,328
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by BobD I'm not going to make myself popular here, but I really suggest that you get used to BOTH spiral and flat blades. I've taken the time to get comfortable with both, and it has done WONDERS to help my scrolling abilities. It's really just a matter not limiting yourself and using the tools that make the job the easiest!
Now all the purists can jump me in the back alley <GRIN>
TODD...HELP!!!! LOL
Bob | Jump you in a back alley????? Why??????
I actually think this is the best post you've ever made here.  |
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02-23-2007, 07:13 PM
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#10 | | Technical Editor
Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Lebanon, Pa
Posts: 2,593
| Aww...shucks...LOL
Bob |
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