Tension problems - Urgent

[ThCube]

I am needing to have this project done first thing in the morning, but for some reason my tension keeps going loose on its own. I have reset the blade several times, but that doesn't seem to work. Any suggestions as to what is going wrong and how to fix it?

[chrispuzzle]

You could try roughing up the flat ends of the blade with sandpaper, it might help the clamps grip.

Chris

[ThCube]

Thank you Chris, I'll give it a try.

[Minnesota scroller]

Yep, sounds like the blade is slipping. If Chris' idea doesn't work, remove the bolt that holds the blade and rough that up. It may have a burr on it.

Good luck.

[Rivari]

Not knowing what type of saw you have makes it a chore to figure out how to cure your problem.

If you are using a Hawk you may want to check the torque screw under the upper arm, them things tend to need adjusting from time to time.

For other saws...I haven't a clue if such a thing exists.

[Rivari]

Dang, I got to thinking...what is the name of the little set screw under the upper arm just past the clamp holder? I know it can't be what I called it initially. None the less whatever it is it is something worth checking for you G4 owners.

[ThCube]

I am using a Craftsman scroll saw. I looked for a screw under the upper arm and I can't find one. I also looked for the owner's manual and I can't find that either.

But none of that seems to matter anymore. I have made 3 baskets and I have broken each one. I am getting so frustrated. Is anyone making collapsable baskets? What type of wood are you using? What direction is the grain suppose to go? How do you get the finish on the sides without breaking it? Why won't my baskets go down as far as they show in the picture? I have decreased the angle of my table, was I suppose to increase it? The directions said to decrease it. I am so close to throwing in the towel. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong.

Terry

[PeteB]

Hi, Terry--

I never made a basket, but can appreciate the problems you're having.

The fit of the layers comes from an interplay between the angle you cut and the kerf of the saw blade you're using. I imagine that whatever pattern source you're using has instructions for which size blade to use, and what angle to cut, but blades vary between makers, and even from blade to blade sometimes, and the angle must be precise, because being off even 1/10th of a degree is going to affect your fit.

If I were to make a basket, I'd test my setup on some scrap to make sure that I was getting a good fit of the layers before cutting the real thing. You don't have to cut a fancy shape for fit testing; a simple small circle will do. If you're not getting enough extension, you need to either decrease your angle or use a thicker blade.

Once you're getting a proper fit, I would go so far as measuring the kerf with an automotive feeler gauge (maybe someone can suggest a better tool), and re-measure a test cut on scrap wood every time I change a blade thereafter.


I took a fast look online about scrollsaw baskets, and see that people recommend making them out of (among other things) oak and poplar. From my experience, which is limited so I may be wrong, these are about the LAST woods I'd consider making baskets out of because of potential splitting.

You need to find yourself a hardwood supplier nearby to help with your lumber selections, where you can go look at the woods and talk about your projects, maybe taking in patterns or samples. Maybe a nice dealer will save chunks of offcuts or ends for you, knowing what you do, My personal interest is in exotic plywoods, and I have found suppliers within driving distance that really know their stuff; it is a joy dealing with them.

If I were to looking to make baskets, I would be asking about cherry, walnut, maple, and maybe Phillipine mahogany (not African). There may be others, like alder, butternut, hickory, pecan, who knows? You're looking for a fine grain and resistance to splitting, not necessarily hardness. Best thing is to take recommendations from a dealer, look at the stock, compare prices, and try them out.

Pete

[workin for wood]

I don't make baskets, but if I did, I'd have all the grain running in the same direction so that they can expand and contract as a team. With blades, I bend the ends just a hair with some needlenose pliers...that always stops them from pulling/slipping. You should be able to use a pretty big blade on them baskets which allows for more tension to be put on the blade and less breakage...a number 7 or 9 would be good..you can still make the turns good and should get less smoking.

[PeteB]

Sort of missed this earlier question. Grain direction should be up and down, I'd think, for most uniform appearance of the basket from all sides.

Pete