Changed Blade am boy am I sorry

[owler]

OK- I am not trying to start off a new blade debate. I respect all of your personal choices. I am just relaying an experience I had this weekend. Maybe chalk it up to too many hours in the shop (not possible unless you are up against a deadline), I don't know.

All of my scrolling this past year has been with FD skip tooth blades. I have been working on 9 of the Kathy Wise fall leaf frames for the past several weeks and things have been humming along nicely. I was running out of these blades and was looking forward to trying the Olsons I got at the open house in September.

When I switched, it was like I was using a different saw!

First - I know that blade thickness with the same number blade between manufacturers is different but I did not realize how much. This is a shame and I think we need to start a campaign to standardize blade thickness.

Second - These blades were a whole lot louder! The blade was really chirping against the maple I was cutting.

Third - I could not control the cut. I tried slowing the speed down and everything else I have learned on this forum. I had to walk away I was so frustrated.

I will make sure I have enough blades of the same manufacturer to complete an entire project for now on. And I may have the better part of a 1/2 gross of #5 skip reverse blades for someone soon if I still don't like them when I try again.

[SharonW0111]

Hey Dan- Funny how when we have "bad" blades we tend not to use them except in a pinch- I have a few - well okay a couple of dozen from before I found FDB but when I get to my last couple of dozen of fds I start to go into a panic and worry about running out - I have "others" but I just don't know if I will ever feel at home with anything else-- now if I can just figure out how to keep the blades sharp longer ---grrrr
Sharon

[Rolf]

OK now you have done it! Let the blade wars begin
Just kidding, I guess it all depends on what you get used to using.
I do most of my cutting with 2 and 2/0 Olson blades. I tried the 2/0 FD and can't follow a line if my life depended on it.
Within each manufacturers blade inventory I have found blades that I really like because I have gotten used to how they cut. I love my Olson 2 and 2/0 and their PGT series and now the #3 reverse Machined(milled) blades.
I like several of the Pegas modified geometry and the only spiral I use is the New FD 2/0.
I would suspect that the lower end blades from any manufacturer may be problematic.
Bottom line is that we love the blades that we get used to using and have learned to compensate for their quirks. I never change in mid stream.

[Steviegwood]

UhOh here we go, just kidding. I am using the olson pgt no. 457 univ.no. 7rg. I have used several other brands to compare and keep coming back to olson. I myself have not had any problem with noise or being able to control a cut also I have never needed to sand a cut. I bottom feed my blades on my delta 40-650 and usually break a blade before wearing it completely out. I am cutting mostly 5-8th thickness in maple, redoak & hickory. Just my two cents. Steve

[SharonW0111]

Hey there Steve-- try loosing your tension a tad and it will stop you from breaking blades so often
Love ya-
Sharon

[Steviegwood]

Thanks Sharon, but I believe that it is from bending the blades so often while bottom feeding them through so many small holes. I have my tension about as little as I can. Thanks again for the suggestion though. Steve

[workin for wood]

I'm still waiting for someone to modify a saw to handle a chain saw blade...man that would be something.

Originally Posted by SharonW0111

I get to my last couple of dozen of fds I start to go into a panic and worry about running out
Sharon

Sharon, I thought I was the only one who did that!

[Minnesota scroller]

I think Rolf hit it on the nose. It all depends on what you get used to. I've tried all 3 of the major brands and keep coming back to Olson #0 for my 1/4" portrait work. They are a little sturdier and don't bend as easy when making sharp turns. I find them much easier to control and less likely to break. However, when cutting 1/2" hardwood I find the Pegas #3 the blade to go to, especially for straight lines. I think the smartest thing to do is find one you like and stick with it. Each type and brand of blade has it's own characteristics, as does each scroll sawyer. Better to get efficient with 1 or 2 blades than to be halfass with several.

[MikeDingas]

Wel, as a relative newbie to scrolling, the only blades I've tried are Olson's and those sold at Lowes/HomeDepot. I mostly use the Olson 2R and the only control issues I have are due to inexperience. Olson's does provide a blade chart which indicates blade thickness so at least you know what you're dealing with. My hearing has been bad for years so I can't comment on loudness. I'm able to get pretty good control with a fresh blade. Unless I slip, square corners and tight V's are not a problem.