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03-31-2006, 12:28 AM
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#1 | | Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 13
| Cutting out patterns I got my designs from Roberts Studio. Very big panda bear. My question is how do I cut the patterns. I mean they are all on one page. I also would prefer they be smaller. Any ideas? I also would hate to destroy this pattern due to cutting. Can I transfer. What do you all do. Regards |
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03-31-2006, 12:51 AM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Independence, Ky
Posts: 220
| I hate to destroy patterns, too. I usually scan them, one section at a time, print them out, then tape them together. Or better yet, I sometimes take them to Kinkos and have them copy it for me on one page. If you scan them, you can usually make them as big or small as you want.
Good luck with your panda!
Dan
__________________ Dan ___________________________________ Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work."
-- Thomas Edison,
American inventor |
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03-31-2006, 02:59 AM
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#3 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: wisconsin
Posts: 4,536
| Yes, take your pattern to a copier, and copy it, enlarge or reduce to suit your desires. Make about 5 or six copies at once. That way, you can cut it up for the individual pieces, by cutting adjoining piece from a diffrent copy, and alternate from one sheet to another so you can get the full part of each one. Just remember, you must follow the line good on the pieces, or, another method is to use the joining piece once its cut to get the joining edge to match it, by tracing that edge onto your wood for the next piece. I hope that made sense. dale |
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03-31-2006, 08:10 AM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Beautiful Southern Oregon
Posts: 628
| You did not say if the pattern is intarsia or fretwork. If intarsia I get several copies of the pattern and go from there. After copying put the original away. The way I do it is to put one complete pattern on your bench and cover it with wax paper. Wax paper is so that if you get glue on it it won't stick to the table. I use this to lay the cut out pieces and make sure I am following the pattern. Each piece is cut out of the pattern with a bit extra paper all the way around. Where two (or more) pieces are touching each other I use the edge of the cut piece to draw that edge on the surrounding piece or pieces. This should, if you cut it right, will follow the pattern and will ensure a good fit. I use glue sticks to glue the pattern to the wood. Comes off very easy, its cheap and if it leaves a little residue so what, you will sand it anyway. This method makes the cutting and fitting a very minor part of the intarsia. This is for intarsia, not segmentation. Enjoy doing intarsia because you are going to get hooked. 
__________________
Chuck D
A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour. Hegner 18, Delta p-20, Griz 14 inch Band saw |
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03-31-2006, 04:07 PM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 927
| The only other suggestion I have is to trace the pattern onto your wood using carbon paper. The best way though is to get copies made and attach the pattern to the wood. Good luck with it. Mick |
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03-31-2006, 09:03 PM
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#6 | | Member
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 78
| I started doing intarsia last fall and had the same dilemma/questions when I got my pattern. A ChuckD says make copies of the original, put it away and be careful not to destroy it. I did my intarsia to 100% of the pattern size. I use my PC color printer and copy various sections (they will overlap) and then carefully tape them together to reconstruct the original pattern. I use a light table to assist me. You can avoid this step if you get it copied/reduced at a pro print shop.
I now take this one “master” copy and number each piece. I then copy that to 100% a number of times. I cut these copied into various sections (like in your case the panda and the tree) and then I use spray glue and glue these cutouts to ~ 1/16 plastic. I then cut out each piece which has the paper and the piece number stuck to it. These individual pieces can then all be laid on the recommended color of wood (also make sure the pattern grain arrow follows the grain of the wood) and the outline of each piece drawn around it. This is the line you use to cut the actual pattern pieces. These same plastic pieces can be used again if you want to do the project again.
I use other copies as a working copy and one to cut the backer board if required. Glue a copy to your backer and then cut all around about 1/8 – ¼ inside of the pattern. This will allow you to glue the pieces and mount it. You can also get creative and frame it.
Once the pieces are cut, systematically mate them together. If there are major gaps, cut right around the join. This will tend to close any gaps.
Good luck on you first project!
Bob
__________________
Scrolling satisfies the passion for intricate creativity. My saw is an Excalibur EX21.
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04-03-2006, 06:06 PM
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#7 | | Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 13
| I went to Kinkos and it worked out great. They had a big machine that took the whole pattern at once and I got the right size. Thanks for the ideas. |
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