Is It me or the wood?

[Capt Weasel]

I cut a pattern into a Basswood plaque that is 1/2" thick with #5 FD-FSP blade I think, reverse tooth. When I finished I noticed that the cuts were kinda fuzzy and where I could I sanded with 220 then 320 paper and it was still a little fuzzy but not a bad. Also I noticed that some of the points that I cut were weak and chipped off without any help from me. I know poplar can be fuzzy but it'll sand out and the points usually stay stiff as long as you don't hit them. I'm not familier with Basswood and this was my first experiance cutting it. I cut something else into a Basswood "log" plaque that has the bark on the edges and it wasn't as fuzzy and it sanded down ok.
Is this just the way Basswood is, fuzzy and weak, or was it the wrong blade type for the job?

[jttheclockman]

Basswood is soft wood and stringy and can be on the fuzzy side. Cedar is also like that. As far as chipping goes it is possible you are not letting the blade do the cutting and pushing too hard. When using reverse tooth blades make sure the reverse teeth come through your table. Some saws and also if you put a zero cleance top on the table prevent this from happening. Even with reverse tooth blades does not get rid of the fuzzies entirely on the back side but does cut down on them.

[Capt Weasel]

The fuzzies are on the inside of the cut to on the flat. When I cut a point, as I did on this piece, I start at the tip and cut down the right then back out and then down the left side instead of rolling around the tip. I felt I would get a sharper point by doing it this way. I don't know if the reverse teeth are coming through or not. How would I find out?

[jimp11]

with the blade in and tight bring the blade up to the top check for the revers teeth.

[bronco]

John,
Why does putting a zero clearance on the table top help prevent fuzzies on the back side of your work?
Bill

[CanadianScroller]

I still like using old cereal boxes behind my work while cutting. This eliminates the fuzzies. I find if you sand your wood surfaces prior to scrolling, using the cardboard, or a sacrificial board behind your piece you will eliminate the need for sanding at all.
If you use a piece of 1/8 hardboard or mdf as a backer you can even save the offcut for a template for your next project.

As for the zero clearance insert, the more support you have under your work piece the less of a chance there is for fuzzies. I am not sure how much an insert would help, but it sure doesn't hurt, I use them all the time.

[jttheclockman]

Originally Posted by bronco

John,
Why does putting a zero clearance on the table top help prevent fuzzies on the back side of your work?
Bill

Bill

Your question was answered and just to back it up it is like putting a sacrifical piece on the back of a project when you stack cut. The back piece gets the fuzzies. That was really not my intention when I mentioned the zero clearance top. It was to point out that if using reverse teeth blades the reverse teeth on some blades is not long enough to protrude through the top thus making them useless. Some saws the stroke is not enough to allow reverse tooth blades to protrude no mattter if there is not an auxilary top used. To check this as mentioned pull the arm to its top most point and look at the blade from the side and if you see 2 to 3 teeth of reverse showing you are good to go. Some blades have more reverse teeth than others and that is also true for the different sizes.

Now as far as the fuzzies as was originally mentioned it is in the nature of the wood. You say you are getting fuzzies inside the cuts. This happens and can happen on other species of wood. Usually your soft woods but have had this in pieces of mahaganoy and also oak. There is little you can do unless you want to use a sharp knife and cut them away.

One other thing a zero clearance top or backer board may help with breaking of delicate corners such as was mentioned because it gives support when the blade travels up and down. This is a good idea to use whenever doing delicate fret work.

[sheltiecarver]

Bill,
All the answers you've gotten so far are right on, but basswood varies quite a bit. As a carver, I occasionally get a piece of basswood that is "punky" , or quite soft. Could probably be indented pretty well with the handle of a knife, let alone the blade. The stuff carves just awfully! It is really only good for the wood stove. You are buying basswood planks, and they are not really cheap, so you might try denting them is an inconspicuous place with the back of your fingernail (not the end), If it dents much at all, pick another one. Good northern basswood cuts pretty cleanly, with only a few fuzzies, and with a sacrificial board or cardboard, you should not have to work as hard as you did on that one. The softer, rather worthless basswood comes from the southern states. Good luck in the future, and don't completely give up on basswood - there are few light colored woods, even fewer readily available as rounds, so it is a good one when that lightness is needed.
Sandy

[bronco]

I quess I never really understood what the heck zero tolerance was for,
but the support issue makes a lot of sense.I have a plastic insert for zero
tolerance that came with my saw I think I will start using it.
Bill

[lucky788scroller]

Everything said so far is good advice.You are cutting basswood "rounds" with bark all the way around if I'm understanding this right.If thats the case,you will have more of a fuzziness partly because the direction of the wood fibers in your piece.Think of it as you are in a sense pulling on the wood fibers as you cut them, and basswood is a very soft wood,although I do believe basswood is actually classed as a hardwood.I may be wrong on that,but I think it is.At any rate,remember the softer the wood,usually the more fuzzies,and yes,even a reverse tooth blade in properly doesnt remove every fuzzy.Your method of cutting,and backing out ,then going at it again to get a sharp,crisp point is actually a ok idea,but when backing down your cut,if your wood is turned at a slight angle,even the tiniest amount,it will cause the teeth to drag against the side of the saw kerf,leaving that cut looking like a bad blade was used because the blade is in a sense binding in the kerf (and magnified even more on softer woods).Try making that cut,then back up through it,then cut a chunk off and examine your cut for smoothness. Then,do that cut,and either turn off the saw and carefully back down it,then cut off a chunk and examine that cut,see if it made any diffrence,Im guessing it will. One other good way to cut out a spot like that is to cut past the sharp point,then go past a little bit and spin your piece,removing a little circle of wood from the waste piece as you head back to meet your pattern line squarely with where the point is at. This is only applicable if you actually have a piece that will be removed though. Them basswood 'rounds' are very nice looking,but you will find they require a bit more work,and patience,especially when it comes time to apply finish. Dont let this one project frustrate you too much,it will look great once your done. Show us pictures of it someday.