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Old 03-04-2014, 11:59 PM   #1
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Default Burn, baby, burn

Noob scroller here. Trying to get all the pieces together just right.

I had some Olson #5 reverse skip tooth blades, 12.5 tpi and was cutting 3/4 baltic birch plywood for some puzzles. Wasn't going too horribly.

Then I got some other Olson blades. Also #5 skip tooth, same width, thickness, tpi, but not reverse. These were breaking right and left and burning up the wood something awful. Went back to the reverse and it was night and day.

Should that really make so much difference? I thought reverse was just to keep the bottom side of the board cleaner. The blades seem to be specced exactly the same. But the burners seem to have a golden/coppery color to them, while the reverse ones are flat black.

Anyway, I ordered a Flying Dutchman sample pack. I think I should probably be using #7s for the 3/4 baltic.

Oh, yeah, also taped everything up with clear packing tape, and I *think* I have the tension set correctly. It's an older, used Delta 16 inch, but seems to be in decent shape.

Any other advice? I'm just going to keep plugging away, and stick to the reverse blades until my FD order shows up.
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Old 03-05-2014, 03:01 AM   #2
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Theres no right or wrong,everybodies different,some more different than others ,trial and error till you find what works best for you and your syyle and abilities ,it will change with time ,not trying to be a smarty ,just the way it is ,smoke and b.s. don't change any thing ,play and practice ,go by the guide lines ,but they are just that!don't try to rush it ,enjoy the results as they progress and they will ,control is what you are after speed will come after you gain control ,of all blades in differing conditions ,good luck and enjoy the journey !
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:21 AM   #3
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I am assuming you are cutting that same piece of 3/4 BB. If so you could have a bad batch of blades. It does happen. If your saw is variable speed try to turn it down a little. Skip tooth blades are designed to cut more aggressively.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:30 AM   #4
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I bet if you tried the same blade on 3/4" solid wood, you would notice a big difference. Just think of all the glue that is in that 3/4" Baltic ply. I have experienced the same thing, so, now I do not use any ply thicker than 1/2". If I need to go to 3/4" or thicker, I use a select pine or poplar. Probably 90% of my scrolling is on Baltic birch ply, but, I do not like using it thicker than 1/2".

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Old 03-05-2014, 08:09 AM   #5
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Tony, yeah, that's interesting. I would have assumed plywood was easier to cut than solid wood. But I did just read elsewhere about the glue dulling the blade quickly. Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:35 AM   #6
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If one of those Olson blades was a PGT series and the other not. You would see a huge difference. The PGT5 reverse tooth is a great, straight cutting blade.
Plywood is tough on blades. I was just turning some small diameters on some 3/8 BB ply it dulled my spindle gauge almost instantly I had too sharpen it frequently. For you turners, no it was not my best gauge, my newer tools are a better steel. But it does very well on solid maple, birch etc. The glue is a killer.
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Old 03-05-2014, 09:36 AM   #7
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Yeah, neither blade was PGT. They were Olsen #44600 and #44602. As far as I can tell, the only difference is that the 44502 has the reverse teeth. But it was night and day. Feeling like I might have gotten a bad batch on the 44600s.
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Old 03-05-2014, 11:46 AM   #8
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So I'm doing fairly well with the reverse blades. I glued up a whole pile of puzzle patterns and I'm just working through them. I figure by the time I get through all 20-something of them, I should have a bit of confidence.

One thing I'm running into is that often the puzzle pieces go together from one direction but not the other due to the cut not being totally square. I've squared the table using the notch in a block of wood method. So I assume that I'm just probably putting too much side pressure to the piece going around the curves. I noticed my blade seem to have a bit too much play, so I gave it a bit more tension and that helped. For the most part, a bit of sanding takes care of it. I also notice that I'm still getting some burning on the tight corners, and those are also usually where the cut is most out of square and hanging.

But overall, things are improving and I'm getting a bit of a feel for it.
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:15 PM   #9
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Two things, sideways pressure, the other is make sure to let the blade catch up before you start the turn. To test this push straight in with your normal pressure, stop, then see how much further the blade travels you will be surprised.
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:17 PM   #10
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Thanks. I'll try that.
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