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|02-22-2014, 07:56 PM||#1|
Join Date: Feb 2014
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How meticulously should I sand my crafts
So around where i live we don't have many craft stores to go and look at samples of other crafts so I don't know how well my final product should be sanded. I am new at this type of art but do my projects that i have completed look pretty good. I have a seller in line for my work but don't want to hand him crap. How well does a final project need to be sanded. Do all the cut marks need to be sanded out, or does that add to the effect that it is "human made" and not created by a program and laser. In the middle of letters and stuff does it need to be sanded completely smooth because many of these holes are difficult to get to? So basically what needs to be sanded completely smooth and what can be left with some minor cut marks.
|02-22-2014, 08:36 PM||#2|
Puzzle Making Muggle
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hogwarts (the House Elves kind of dig me)
Blog Entries: 5
Thanked 296 Times in 240 Posts
Are you applying a finish on your piece? If so, good sanding is much more important.
I think, in the end, the better sanded your project is, the more proud you'll be of it. The secret is finding the right tools to do the job easily.
Come visit at The Ferguson Puzzle Company !
|02-22-2014, 08:48 PM||#3|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dallas, Ga
Thanked 29 Times in 29 Posts
I usually judge it by the fact that it doesn't look or feel like it needs sanded anymore. Some pieces take a little sanding, some take a lot.
|02-23-2014, 12:10 AM||#4|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: West Virginia
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
It depends on what you are sanding. I do a lot of fretwork with 1/4 inch plywood. The plywood doesn't require much sanding to look good.
|02-23-2014, 03:23 AM||#5|
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Euharlee, GA
Thanked 156 Times in 137 Posts
Only You can make the decision as to the need ,after all you the one who ,has to weight the condition and presentation of the specific pc, some require fine finishes some not so ,your buyer will soon tell you ,and you'll adjust your offerings according time ,effort and cost verses return .Both as gifts and sale item,s .I know thats not what you wanted to hear but it's the best I can offer!
"Home Of The Dust Free Scroll Saw"
Remember (IT is WHAT it IS)( Unless YOU change IT!)
|02-23-2014, 09:27 AM||#6|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Butler, PA
Thanked 179 Times in 155 Posts
As others have said, there are lots of variables here. What kind of projects are you making? What materials are you using? How will they be finished?
In general, I think that unless the project specifically is going for a rustic, natural looking appearance, then the saw marks should be sanded smooth. This can be difficult to do on those inside cuts, but the proper blade will help minimize the saw marks in the first place, thus reducing the sanding. By and large, I don't want to sand any of my cut edges. A good, sharp blade, of the proper tooth configuration, will leave a very smooth edge with no visible saw marks.
Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter. Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."
|02-23-2014, 10:06 AM||#7|
Grandpa making Sawdust
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Aumsville, Oregon
Thanked 1,048 Times in 723 Posts
I agree with the others. basically if you are comfortable putting your name on it I guess it has been completed to your satisfaction.
"Still Montana Mike"
There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.”
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|02-23-2014, 10:23 AM||#8|
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Northwestern Ontario
Thanked 37 Times in 36 Posts
I am always surprised (and disappointed) whenever I see a poor finish on a great cutting - the piece then becomes something far less than it might have been (and should have been).
A great finish can hide a multitude of sins - and a poor finish ruins the very best of cuttings. Sanding is the first step towards a great finish.
A gentle touch (very gentle) with a sanding mop will remove the fuzzies and soften the sharp edges of your cutting. Unless you've been using a spiral blade the inside cuts of your fretwork should already be smooth - but if there is touch up needed then a rotary tool will do the job.
|02-23-2014, 10:38 AM||#9|
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bellport, LI New York
Thanked 433 Times in 387 Posts
As the others have said it is up to your standard. If it is fretwork The blades that I use leave almost no marks and if the cut is contiuous and smooth I don't sand any inside holes. I run my work over my SandFlee with 220grit and then gentle sanding with a Mac mop. No fuzzies or sharp rough edges.! It has to feel good. Intarsia is a different ballgame. Tool marks and imperfections really pop. I take pictures of a piece before I put a finish on, you would be amazed what that shows.
I agree with Mike "basically if you are comfortable putting your name on it I guess it has been completed to your satisfaction."
For me it also has to pass the final QA my wife.
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And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association
|02-24-2014, 07:56 AM||#10|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Jersey
Thanked 57 Times in 53 Posts
For really delicate hardwood fretwork, I sand to 220 grit before I cut to eliminate any took marks on the surface. A raking light angle will show them clearly. I use a reverse tooth blade to eliminate the fuzzies on the back. Then a very light touch with a piece of 320 grit after the pattern has been removed to get rid of any glue or tape residue and to ease the edges of the frets a bit. I don't even try to get in all the fret holes.
As Jay said, a poor finish will ruin the best cuttings.
A day without sawdust is a day without sunshine.
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