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|01-25-2014, 06:24 AM||#1|
Join Date: Dec 2013
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Help with very fine work
Hi Guys, I am trying to do some very fine work on a guitar top. (The top is not on the guitar yet, just a flat 2.5mm Spruce board that I have reinforced on the back with fine fibreglass tissue) I am using a spiral blade to save me from turning the whole workpiece around, but since it also cuts on the upstroke, I have made a clear acrylic presser foot, much like a sewing machine, to hold the board down. My problems are ; Machine vibration makes it very difficult to see the guidelines; furring of the upper edge also masks the guidelines; I'm finding it very difficult to follow my guidelines even when I can see them! resulting in a wavy cut that I will not be able to file/sand straight as the groove is too narrow even for a needle file. All help and suggestions gratefully received.
|01-25-2014, 08:54 AM||#2|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Thanked 109 Times in 90 Posts
I guess first thing to do is find out what is causing the vibration. I've never cut fiberglass so I don't know if that is catching on the blade. Is your saw mounted to a table or stand? If not, that is the first thing I would try. You could also get regular spiral blades, the ones that do not have reverse teeth.
Someone else will chime in with better help soon. And, be sure to post pictures of the guitar.
"...vegetarian is an Indian word meaning lousy hunter." Steve Smith (aka Red Green)
|01-25-2014, 08:57 AM||#3|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Littleton, NC
Thanked 141 Times in 135 Posts
While a spiral blade will cut it IMHO it takes a lot more practice to cut a straight smooth line with a spiral blade then a flat blade. I would use a #3 or #5 reverse tooth blade. When you cut keep your focus on a spot about 1/8" in front of the blade. It will help you track true.
|01-25-2014, 09:33 AM||#4|
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Clyde, Texas
Thanked 68 Times in 52 Posts
I use spirals for much of my work and feel comfortable in using them. If I was working on this, I would:
Use a 1/4 inch backer board to help in control of the cut - Start with a FD 3/0 New Spiral - Do sample cutting on scrap piece of same wood as the top to make sure blade is in correct, right tension and saw speed and that the finished cut is what I would be satisfied with. (if 3/0 is too small step up one size) - Hold the wood down by hand pressure only. After some sample cutting I would probably take out the spiral and go with a flat blade for this project.
Vibration - Cut at the slowest speed you can. Have saw firmly attached to stand or work bench. Maybe add some extra weight to the stand to help hold it steady.
Furring - Is this fuzzies or saw dust collecting on top? If it is fuzzies, make sure blade is not in upside down. If saw dust - keep it blown off. I think static electricity could make the acrylic foot a saw dust magnet and the foot could interfere with the saw's dust blower.
Suggestion after reading Dan's reply: Try cutting a piece of the wood without the fiberglass using your same setup to see is there is a difference.
Using wood rescued from the fire pit. My story told with a log.
Last edited by JustLarry; 01-25-2014 at 09:39 AM. Reason: After reading Dan's reply
|01-25-2014, 10:08 AM||#5|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: MA USA
Thanked 155 Times in 140 Posts
Things you may want to try:
Use a dryer softner sheet and rub it on the fiberglass before cutting, it should help control the static electricity that is keeping the sawdust on it.
If you need to sand a slot and your file won't fit just cut strips of sandpaper and slide it through.
WD aka: Gloria
" Two memorable things to say in life are Hello for the first time and Good-by for the last".
|01-25-2014, 10:43 AM||#6|
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Euharlee, GA
Thanked 125 Times in 106 Posts
if all else fails LUBE your blade ,resin plugs fine saw blades instantly.
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