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Old 01-13-2014, 11:50 AM   #1
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Default Some advice on setting up new saw

Hello all,

I just picked up a used Delta 40-570 on Craigslist and need some help setting it up. It didnt have a blade when I got it, so I picked up a variety pack and got one installed, but the blade seems to bend away from the workpiece when I feed it in, like it doesnt want to cut. The teeth are pointing down, like the manual says, so maybe I'm doing something wrong. I figure maybe the blade needs more tension, but when I tighten it more, there is a knocking with each up/down motion of the blade. If I loosen it, it seems that it deflects when the workpiece enters. I was trying to cut 3/4" pine, which I know may be thick, but it's pretty soft.

The manual is also not so great at explaining the QuickClamps. I was able to get the blade clamped in pretty easily, but there is no description of whether the upper and lower blade holders should both be up, down, close together, far apart, angled, etc when inserting the blade. Or maybe it doesnt matter. The same with the position of the blade - should it be fully seated or bottomed out in the clamp, or entering the clamp straight in or at an angle or at the front or back of the clamp. It seemed pretty obvious to me when I set it up, but with the knocking issue, I am wondering if I did it wrong. If anyone can point me to some good resources or if you have a similar saw, could you walk me through the proper setup?

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:25 PM   #2
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Used to get that knocking sound when I had my craftsman. A lot of times I soul take off all the tension and reseat the blade in the clamps and it would go away. When I clamp blades I try to have equal amounts of blade on upper and lower clamp and seated all the way back against clamp. I do lower arm first then for upper arm I pull up on the blade with my left hand to remove tension as a clamp it with right hand. Also for the knocking try adjusting your speed if you can with your model and also make sure it is not just the upper arm hitting your blowers nozzle. That happened to me lots of times before I realized what it was. Good luck and hope you enjoy your new saw!
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:49 PM   #3
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Welcome Matt,
I have a Delta SS350 that is very similar looking at the manual.
Regarding the clamps (I have the same clamp on my Hawk) when I put a blade in I adjust the small knob until the cam lever just starts to tighten about 1/8" from closed.
You do not need to over tighten or you can damage the clamps. If the blade slips out you can tweak it just a bit more. You will have to re-adjust for large or small blades. For the correct blade tension do to Steve Good’s site, on the left side a bit down is a place that says free software down load the file. It is an audio file for tension. His site is also a great place for patterns.
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I don’t know what blades you bought but they are not all created equal. Get some good blades on line from sources listed on the left. Olson. Flying Dutchman, Pegases. Etc. Some sold at the box stores are not so hot.
The saw should not knock, and the blade if tensioned properly should not deflect like you are describing. It should also cut through pine without a problem I routinely cut 1-1/4 when doing compound cuts.
My old SS350 was a bit noisy at first so I pulled the covers off and re-lubed everything with a good white lithium grease, especially at the link plate at the rear.
I also found a loose set screw on the counter weight where it attaches to the motor shaft.
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:26 PM   #4
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Default Tensioning blade

Thanks for the link to the software with the audio for proper tension. I've heard everything from a perfect C-note to simply "a high pitched twang", but obviously that means different things to the people writing it and those reading it.

I think I've also way over tightened my clamps since there's probably a good 3/8" to 1/2" of movement left on the clamp when I start to feel the resistance. I'll make these adjustments and also take the covers off to inspect the machine from the inside to ensure everything is lubed properly and no missing hardware.

As for the blades, I'll investigate higher quality blades, but I would assume even the Home Depot brands will be okay when they are brand new, right? Hopefully it's the other items holding me back and I can get them fixed easily.

Thanks again and I'll report back.
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:26 AM   #5
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Rolf - you were definitely right, I had way overtightened the clamps beyond what is needed to hold the blade in place so thank you for that. I also tried to use the audio files from Steve Good's site to compare my blade tension to, but when I pluck my blade it doesn't make that nice ringing noise, it's more of a quick "plink", and then it's done. It doesn't reverberate or continue on. If this sounds familiar to you or you think you can help diagnose (or perhaps it's normal for this type of saw), please advise.

As for the knocking, I did isolate it to the upper scroll arm hitting the case at the apex of the downstroke.

Next step (unless anyone has more advice or ideas) is to take the covers off and see if there are worn or loose parts inside.

Thanks again
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:32 AM   #6
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I think each saw has a bit of its own tone. The file Steve has gives you a basic idea.
Also a small blade will have a different tone than the larger ones. With experience and cutting time you will get a feel for what is right on your saw.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:37 AM   #7
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Hi Matt,
The blade should not move side ways more than 1/8" in the middle.
Most blades have a burr what makes the blade cut to the right. To stay on the line, you have to move the wood some degree to the right.
Have good speed and push very slow into the blade, let the blade do the cutting, they say.
You can find more information on my site. Click on Selecting a Blade
and Q & A.
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Old 01-14-2014, 01:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmeitzner@gmail.com View Post
Thanks for the link to the software with the audio for proper tension. I've heard everything from a perfect C-note to simply "a high pitched twang", but obviously that means different things to the people writing it and those reading it.

I think I've also way over tightened my clamps since there's probably a good 3/8" to 1/2" of movement left on the clamp when I start to feel the resistance. I'll make these adjustments and also take the covers off to inspect the machine from the inside to ensure everything is lubed properly and no missing hardware.

As for the blades, I'll investigate higher quality blades, but I would assume even the Home Depot brands will be okay when they are brand new, right? Hopefully it's the other items holding me back and I can get them fixed easily.

Thanks again and I'll report back.
I don't have your brand saw, but, with any saw I would advise you to NOT use box store blades unless they are of the quality brands, like Flying Dutchman or Olsen. If your blade is bending when you try cutting, it has to be the tension, I would think. Good Luck
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:28 PM   #9
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Default still knocking

Thanks everyone for the advice. I took the cover off the saw last night to inspect and lubricate everything. I did not know before the tray in the side of the base was there, but stored inside was a pack of dessicant and a package with 4 Flying Dutchman blades, voila! Happy me.

I lubed everything and inspected for loose joints and found everything pretty solid. No worn holes, no loose or missing set screws, nothing. I also disassembled the clamps, cleaned them up and put everything back together. The tension now sounds like the audio clip with a nice ring, but by the time I tighten it enough to get to the "Correct Tension" setting, the knocking returns when the saw is switched on. It is the upper arm hitting the saw cover at the apex of the downstroke, even with the black end caps off. Really weird since all of the arms and linkages look straight and solid on the inside, and the cover itself is a really tight fit with practically zero play. So I'm not sure what is still going on.

I did loosen the tension just enough to the point where the knocking goes away, and the saw cuts beautifully now, so I guess as a hobbyist, I will just accept this as the nuance of my saw.

If anyone in the future comes across this post and can offer a suggestion, I would still love to figure this out.

Thanks
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:03 PM   #10
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Can you take a picture of where it is knocking?
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